BOU AVENUE
Organ Needle
On 26 December 2022, Zosia Zgolak and I made an attempt to climb Organ Needle, the highest point of the Organ Mountains east of Las Cruces, New Mexico.  Numerous online trip reports attest to the popularity of this peak, but the ascent is not one to be taken lightly even though there is a fairly well-defined trail nearly all the way to the top.  The climb entails an elevation gain of well over a vertical kilometre through steep and rugged terrain, and the summit is guarded by a Class 4 step that can be unnerving especially on descent.  Complicating matters further is the fact that the usual vehicular access via Dripping Springs Road is only open from sunrise to sunset which precludes any pre-dawn starts (walking or biking from the gate would add an additional 4.8 kilometres round-trip).  The time constraint could be avoided by taking an alternate approach along Baylor Canyon Road further north, but as of this writing, I am uncertain about this road's condition or whether or not it is even drivable.

From Las Cruces, follow University Drive eastward until it turns into Dripping Springs Road.  Continue past Sonoma Ranch Boulevard and drive 8.9 kilometres to the junction with Baylor Canyon Road.  Keep straight and drive another 800 metres to reach the access gate.  Drive 2.0 kilometres past the gate and turn left.  Arrive at a split in another 65 metres where the road makes a big one-way loop.  There is a pay station here ($5.00 USD per vehicle per day or interagency pass).  The trailhead with picnic area and vault toilets is just another 350 metres further.

Meep, meep!

Located at a rest area just outside Las Cruces, New Mexico, this roadrunner sculpture is made with recycled materials.

 

From the trailhead, Zosia and I started along the signed and well-traveled Fillmore Trail which ultimately leads to Fillmore Canyon.  Before entering the canyon, the trail splits, and we followed the left branch which climbs up the north side of the canyon's drainage.  Despite increasing encroachment from desert vegetation, the trail is still generally easy to follow as it winds its way gradually up the hillside toward an outcrop known as the "Yellow Rock".  Somewhere along here, we ran into a young gentleman who was on his way down after seeing the sunrise from the summit.  I presumed that he might have come from Baylor Canyon Road if he had started before dawn, but more astonishing to us was his claim that he ascends Organ Needle roughly every four days!  I have a hard enough time repeating any ascent once let alone climbing the same peak--and not an easy one to boot--91 times a year!  I guess it beats paying for a gym membership!

Beyond the "Yellow Rock", the trail becomes increasingly steeper as it rises more than 300 metres along the base of some shadowy cliffs.  The trail braids in some places here, and there are even a few dips to be aware of especially on the return trip.  I found this part of the ascent to be a bit depressing because it is so long and relentlessly grueling.  Even when Zosia and I cleared this section and reached a small grassy plateau known as "Juniper Saddle", it was sobering to realize that we still had some 400 metres of elevation gain left.  Above "Juniper Saddle", we climbed through a brief stretch of forest followed by a welcomed section of open slabs.  At this point, we were passed by another gentleman who appeared to move with the agility of a trail runner.  Zosia had a chance to briefly chat with this guy as he was passing her, and he appeared to be yet another local who often ascends Organ Needle though probably not as frequently as the gentleman we met earlier.  Not to be outdone though, this second gentleman laid claim to the fastest ascent of Organ Needle--roughly an hour and twenty-something minutes!  Zosia and I were already roughly three hours into our ascent and faced at least another hour or more of climbing; I am still having a hard time fathoming how an ascent of less than an hour and a half is even possible on this mountain.  In any case, the trail runner quickly left us behind as we continued with our slow uphill grind.  Vegetation closed in on us again as we climbed past the open slabs, and we had to then traverse to climber's left for about 80 metres or so before turning uphill again.  The trail is a bit hard to follow here, but a few cairns help point the way.  A final lengthy push up a steep and bushy gully brought us to a high col with views to the east (we bumped into the trail runner again here, and he was already descending).  From the high col, we dropped down a narrow and snow-covered trail for a short distance before scrambling up a hidden gully where the crux is located.

The crux is a short but smooth section of slab that has a flake running diagonally up to climber's right.  As mentioned in a few online trip reports, there is now a rope dangling over the crux.  The rope seemed to be sound when I tested my weight on it, but it is always prudent to treat left-behind climbing gear with a bit of skepticism.  I tackled the crux first and climbed up the diagonal flake; the trickiest move was the first one to get onto the flake.  Zosia made an attempt to follow me up but ultimately backed down because she was not comfortable with the exposure.  She stayed put while I scrambled up the remaining short distance to the summit.  Since I did not want to keep Zosia waiting, I stayed on the summit only long enough to snap a few requisite photographs before retreating to the crux.  Down-climbing the diagonal flake was expectedly challenging, and although I did not actually have to use the rope, I kept it within reach in case of a slip.  Once I rejoined Zosia, we sat down to eat lunch together before commencing our descent.

For the most part, Zosia and I simply retraced our steps back up to the high col and then down the mountain.  Along the way, we had some notable route-finding issues at the traverse, the dips, and even lower down in easier terrain below the "Yellow Rock".  Fortunately, we were always able to get back on track quickly without wasting too much time or effort.  The final couple of kilometres were a real race against the setting sun, and although we never resorted to running, we kept up a fairly brisk pace.  We actually made it back to the trailhead with a few minutes to spare and drove out the access gate without any issues.
We're on the clock!

Zosia starts up a trail heading for Organ Needle which is directly in front of her.

The other hikers and their dogs would NOT be climbing Organ Needle with us on this day.

Zosia follows some other hikers at an important turnoff along the route.

Foreshortening really hides how much elevation gain is still to come... From this point, the trail heads to the far right past the "Yellow Rock" and up beneath the shadowy cliffs.
This is where the real grind begins...

Zosia passes the "Yellow Rock" which, due to the odd perspective, looks much smaller than its actual size.

Try not to poke yourself on the way up...or down! Sonny has to be wary of chollas as he climbs the steep route along the shadowy cliffs.

Photo courtesy of Zosia Zgolak

Still a LOT of elevation gain left! Zosia surveys the remainder of the climb from "Juniper Saddle".
The top seems close here, but it's not... Open slabs provide a brief respite from the narrow bushy trail.
The route can be a bit hard to follow here... Zosia traverses below a cliff band before resuming her upward progress.
Are we there yet? Sonny ascends yet another steep and bushy stretch of trail.

Photo courtesy of Zosia Zgolak

Sucks to descend here, but keep going...the end is near! From this high col with views to the east, Zosia makes a brief descent to access the crux (not visible here).
Here is where it gets fun... Zosia arrives at the bottom of the crux complete with climbing rope.
Class 4 in my opinion--the first step is the hardest. Sonny climbs an exposed flake on the crux.

Photo courtesy of Zosia Zgolak

Good try, Zosia! Zosia attempts the crux but would ultimately back down.
I didn't bother to sign the register. The summit register is nestled among other interesting paraphernalia.
Happy Boxing Day! Sonny stands on the summit of Organ Needle (2742 metres).
We'll be visiting the Florida Mountains in another 9 days... In this view to the southwest, Las Cruces is situated on the plain at far right.  On the far right horizon are the Florida Mountains.
I didn't even really notice the White Sands when I took this photo! Baylor Peak (centre) is visible to the north.  Beyond the peaks at far right is a glimpse of White Sands National Park.
Organ Peak looks like a worthy objective for another trip... Organ Peak is at far left in this view to the south.  At centre on the horizon are the Franklin Mountains.
Still nerve-racking even with the rope! Sonny uses the rope for added security as he prepares to down-climb the crux.

Photo courtesy of Zosia Zgolak

Need to stay focused on the route and your footing! After regaining the high col, Zosia begins a long and steep descent.

Photo courtesy of Zosia Zgolak

Gotta keep moving to try and beat the gate closure! After getting off the steepest parts of the route, Zosia settles into a long but mostly straightforward hike back to the trailhead.
Beautiful. Here is a last look at the Organ Mountains from outside the access gate just before sunset.
A grueling ascent with a challenging crux but rewarding views. Total Distance:  11.9 kilometres
Round-Trip Time:  8 hours 26 minutes
Net Elevation Gain:  1095 metres

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