Sugarloaf Mountain And Heart Of Rocks Loop

BOU AVENUE
Sugarloaf Mountain And Heart Of Rocks Loop

On Christmas Day (25 December 2022), Zosia Zgolak and I visited Chiricahua National Monument in southeast Arizona. I discovered this area by chance while researching online for hikes to do in this corner of the state. The park features a stunning array of hoodoos and rock formations which resulted from a prehistoric volcanic eruption. The main attraction in the park is the Heart of Rocks Loop, but we would also add a short ascent of a nearby fire lookout.

From I-10 in the town of Willcox, turn southeast onto East Maley Street (State Route 186). Drive 51.0 kilometres and turn left onto Chiricahua National Monument Highway (SR 181). Drive 4.9 kilometres to the park gate where SR 181 becomes Bonita Canyon Drive. Continue for another 12.0 kilometres and turn right. Drive 160 metres, and turn left for the Echo Canyon trailhead or continue straight for another 840 metres to reach the Sugarloaf trailhead.

Zosia and I started the day with a short and easy ascent of Sugarloaf Mountain from the Sugarloaf trailhead. A good trail winds around the north side of the mountain and climbs moderately up the west ridge to the summit which is topped by an active fire lookout. Other than dealing with some slippery footing due to lingering snow on the trail, we had no problems hiking to the top. The lookout was unmanned and locked up on this day, but we could still peer inside the building's windows while we poked around the exterior.

For our descent, Zosia and I could not resist trying an off-trail short cut down the east side of Sugarloaf Mountain, but as it turned out, this was probably more trouble than it was worth. There are some hidden drop-offs on this side of the mountain, and route-finding was complicated by the miserable bush. Ultimately, we managed to slither and thrash our way down to the parking lot, but it is not a route that I would recommend.

	Wild turkeys are having breakfast beside the road to the trailhead. Photo courtesy of Zosia Zgolak
	From the trailhead, Sugarloaf Mountain appears to be nothing more than a gentle little hill.
	It seems incredulous that a tunnel was blasted through the rock to accommodate the trail.
	The top of Sugarloaf Mountain is actually guarded by some significant cliff bands.
	An active fire lookout sits atop Sugarloaf Mountain, but it is closed and unmanned on this day.
	Sonny and Zosia stand on the summit of Sugarloaf Mountain (2224 metres). A survey benchmark sits atop the boulder beside Zosia.
	In this view to the south, Heart of Rocks Loop is somewhere in the middle ground at right.
	With the trailhead parking lot in sight, Zosia takes a short cut down the east side of Sugarloaf Mountain.
	Snow-covered slabs and uncooperative vegetation make the short cut more trouble than it is worth. Photo courtesy of Zosia Zgolak
	Total Distance: 2.1 kilometres Round-Trip Time: 1 hour 18 minutes Net Elevation Gain: 156 metres GPX Data

After moving my car to the Echo Canyon trailhead, Zosia and I started our second hike of the day by following Ed Riggs Trail, Mushroom Rock Trail, and Big Balanced Rock Trail to reach Heart of Rocks Loop. All junctions are signed, and we had no navigational problems. Much of the first part of this hike is in a steep-sided valley, and we had to contend with chilly temperatures and occasional icy sections of trail. We got a bit more sunshine once we climbed out of Hunt Canyon onto Big Balanced Rock Trail. At the feature known as Big Balanced Rock, we took a short lunch break before tackling Heart of Rocks Loop which showcases many interesting rock formations along the trail. It is debatable which direction is best, but we hiked the loop in a clockwise fashion.

Originally, Zosia and I had planned on returning the same way which is the shortest route out, but when we finished Heart of Rocks Loop, we were inspired to take the longer route back via Echo Canyon. This turned out to be a great decision although it did not feel that way at first. The hike out along Sarah Deming Trail and Upper Rhyolite Canyon Trail felt rather long-winded and largely uninspiring especially with all the annoying ups and downs. However, once we turned up Echo Canyon and reached Echo Park, we were blown away by the very scenic trail which cleverly winds uphill through countless spectacular rock pinnacles. With the late day sun, the whole area seemed on fire, and in my mind, Echo Canyon was the true highlight of this hike. We reached the trailhead just after sunset and subsequently drove out of the area to conclude a most satisfying Christmas.

	Sugarloaf Mountain can be seen in the background as Zosia begins the hike to Heart of Rocks Loop.
	Sonny passes several pinnacles while hiking along Ed Riggs Trail. Photo courtesy of Zosia Zgolak
	More pinnacles appear in the distance as Zosia approaches an important trail junction.
	Sonny sits under an unidentified rock formation along Big Balanced Rock Trail. Photo courtesy of Zosia Zgolak

Should have been named "City of Rocks"!

Pinnacles become more numerous along Big Balanced Rock Trail closer to the junction with Heart of Rocks Loop.

	Zosia takes a break under some impressive pinnacles.
	Big Balanced Rock is the signature feature of this area.
	Zosia kisses the Camel's Head along Heart of Rocks Loop.
	Zosia and Sonny try to emulate the Kissing Rocks.
	Zosia looks across to the sunnier side of Rhyolite Canyon from Sarah Deming Trail.
	Echo Canyon Trail ingeniously winds through seemingly impassable pinnacles.
	Zosia pauses along a narrow corridor among the pinnacles.
	Pinnacles abound at every turn of the trail.

An amazing end to an amazing day.

The last rays of sunshine illuminate a few pinnacles not far from the trailhead. In the background, the lookout building is visible atop Sugarloaf Mountain.

Total Distance: 13.9 kilometres
Round-Trip Time: 6 hours 23 minutes
Cumulative Elevation Gain: ~500 metres

GPX Data