BOU AVENUE
Mastodon Peak And Eagle Mountain
Zosia Zgolak and I visited California's Joshua Tree National Park for the first time ever on 26 December 2023.  The south end of the park is dominated by the Eagle Mountains, and since we were entering from that direction, we decided to try climbing the range's high point which is unofficially known as--surprise, surprise--"Eagle Mountain".  As described in several online trip reports, the standard ascent route is mostly a Class 2 off-trail hike, but the approach is tediously long and can entail some route-finding challenges.  An ascent of diminutive but officially-named Mastodon Peak can easily be tacked on for very little extra effort.

Turn north onto Cottonwood Springs Road from I-10 on Exit 168, 37.5 kilometres west of the junction with Highway 177 or 37.1 kilometres east of the junction with Highway 86 in Indio, California.  Drive 11.0 kilometres to the Cottonwood Visitor Center (washrooms), and turn right onto Cottonwood Oasis Road.  Drive 1.9 kilometres to road's end at the parking lot for Cottonwood Spring trailhead.

Electing to climb Mastodon Peak first, Zosia and I followed the Lost Palms Oasis Trail southward for about a kilometre before turning left onto the Mastodon Peak Loop Trail.  About 400 metres further, a spur trail goes right and swings around to the southeast side of Mastodon Peak where there is an easy scramble route to the top.  Three Hispanic women were already lounging at the top when we arrived, but we ignored them to climb up the highest boulder.
The only native palm tree in the western US!

Fan palms are an arresting sight near Cottonwood Spring trailhead.

Photo courtesy of Zosia Zgolak

Enjoy the trail...for now!

Zosia passes more traditional desert scrub along the Lost Palms Oasis Trail.

There were already three hispanic women on the summit! After turning onto the Mastodon Peak Loop Trail, the first objective of the day is within sight.

The scramble route is actually quite fun.

The top of Mastodon Peak is accessed by a scramble route on the southeast side.

 

Good grippy rock for scrambling!

Sonny scrambles up a boulder on top of Mastodon Peak.

Photo courtesy of Zosia Zgolak

This boulder seemed higher or as high as any other on top of the peak. Zosia stands on presumably the summit of Mastodon Peak (1053 metres).
Having tagged the summit of Mastodon Peak, Zosia and I quickly turned our attention to Eagle Mountain as we descended the same scramble route and headed eastward into the open desert.  Travel was initially easy despite the lack of trails, but my main concern was figuring out which part of Eagle Mountain to aim for.  Based on the online trip reports I had read, I knew that we had to find a canyon to access the upper mountain, but from a distance, the entire western aspect of Eagle Mountain seemed featureless.  As we got closer to the mountain though, we also began running into increasingly more gigantic boulders strewn across the landscape.  Though interesting in and of themselves, the boulders presented serious route-finding challenges for us, and we expended a lot of time and effort trying to navigate over and around them.  With some trial and error, we eventually found the canyon--basically a large drainage--and began ascending the mountain in earnest.  Although we made steady progress up the canyon, this part of the ascent felt interminable, and we were already feeling quite weary by the time we topped out on a plateau of sorts.  The remaining traverse to the summit turned out to be more complicated than expected as we had to lose hard-won elevation and also do some extra route-finding to get past more problematic boulders.  A few cairns proved to be helpful, but I did not feel a sense of relief until we finally stepped onto the summit.

Zosia and I took a well-deserved break atop Eagle Mountain before commencing our descent.  The return across the plateau went a little more smoothly since we avoided some of the route-finding mistakes I made earlier.  Descending the canyon felt just as long as the ascent but was otherwise uneventful.  When we reached the desert flats, we veered a little further north in an effort to steer clear of the boulders that gave us so much trouble earlier in the day.  Whenever we could, we tried to take advantage of easier walking in the sandy washes, but this seemed to constantly pull us further away from where we were aiming to go, namely Mastodon Peak.  Inevitably, we had to take a more direct line, but this involved lots of ups and downs and additional route-finding.  With daylight waning, we finally stumbled into a big wash that eventually led us back to the Mastodon Peak Loop Trail.  Turning right, we completed the loop in the same counterclockwise direction that we started the day with and made it back to our car just as darkness fell.
It's gonna be a long day... Zosia begins the long off-trail approach to Eagle Mountain in the distance.
Did you spot the Salton Sea in the background?

Flat, sandy washes allow easier progress across the desert.

Frustrating and time-consuming!

Sonny inadvertently wanders into boulder-filled terrain where route-finding is much more challenging.

Photo courtesy of Zosia Zgolak

A lot of effort just to get this far...and we haven't even started climbing the mountain yet!

The mouth of the canyon which grants access to the upper mountain is straight ahead but still difficult to discern from this distance.

Alas, poor Yorick!

Sonny finds the skull of a bighorn sheep.

Photo courtesy of Zosia Zgolak

Finally feels like we're making some upward progress!

Zosia enters the canyon which leads to the upper mountain.

It's a long uphill grind.

The canyon narrows in some spots but is generally easy to ascend.

The route-finding here is more complex than it appears.

After climbing out of the canyon, Zosia enters a plateau of sorts on the upper mountain.  The summit is visible in the distance but is still deceptively far away.

More exhausting mentally than physically at this point.

Boulder formations on the plateau present more route-finding challenges.

Still a little route-finding required here but not nearly as difficult as the boulders. Zosia approaches the final rise before the summit.
Second summit of the day!

Sonny and Zosia stand on the summit of Eagle Mountain (1625 metres).

An environmental ticking time bomb... The Salton Sea is visible to the south.
The plateau is anything but innocuous!

This is looking back west at the approach across the innocuous-looking plateau.  On the distant horizon at far left is San Jacinto Peak.

And a whole lotta nothing in between here and there! Part of a solar panel farm is barely visible at distant centre in this view to the east.
It's like Dark Territory on that stretch of the I-10!

To the southeast, the I-10 can be seen running across the length of the valley.

Feels long even going down! Sonny descends the access canyon.

Photo courtesy of Zosia Zgolak

Still have a long walk out from here...

Zosia finds herself back in the desert flats after exiting the canyon.

What a slog to get back...ugh!

Zosia is almost back at the trailhead after sunset.

 

Mastodon is a fun short scramble; Eagle is an epic grind that is mentally draining. Total Distance:  19.9 kilometres
Round-Trip Time:  9 hours 38 minutes
Cumulative Elevation Gain:  789 metres

GPX Data