BOU AVENUE
Mastodon Peak And Eagle
Mountain
Zosia Zgolak and I visited California's
Joshua Tree National Park for the first time ever on 26 December 2023.
The south end of the park is dominated by the Eagle Mountains, and since
we were entering from that direction, we decided to try climbing the
range's high point which is unofficially known as--surprise,
surprise--"Eagle Mountain". As described in several online trip
reports, the standard ascent route is mostly a Class 2 off-trail hike,
but the approach is tediously long and can entail some route-finding
challenges. An ascent of diminutive but officially-named Mastodon
Peak can easily be tacked on for very little extra effort.
Turn north onto Cottonwood Springs Road from I-10 on Exit 168, 37.5
kilometres west of the junction with Highway 177 or 37.1 kilometres east
of the junction with Highway 86 in Indio, California. Drive 11.0 kilometres
to the Cottonwood Visitor Center (washrooms), and turn right onto
Cottonwood Oasis Road. Drive 1.9 kilometres to road's end at the
parking lot for Cottonwood Spring trailhead.
Electing to climb Mastodon Peak first, Zosia and I followed the Lost Palms Oasis Trail
southward for about a kilometre before turning left onto the Mastodon
Peak Loop Trail. About 400 metres further, a spur trail goes
right and swings around to the southeast side of Mastodon Peak where
there is an easy scramble route to the top. Three Hispanic women
were already lounging at the top when we arrived, but we ignored them to
climb up the highest boulder.
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Fan palms are an arresting sight near Cottonwood Spring trailhead.
Photo courtesy of Zosia Zgolak |
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Zosia passes more traditional desert scrub along the Lost Palms Oasis
Trail. |
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After turning onto the Mastodon Peak
Loop Trail, the first objective of the day is within sight. |
The top of Mastodon Peak is accessed by a scramble route on the southeast
side.
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Sonny scrambles up a boulder on top of Mastodon Peak.
Photo courtesy of Zosia Zgolak |
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Zosia stands on presumably the summit
of Mastodon Peak (1053 metres). |
Having tagged the summit of Mastodon Peak, Zosia and I quickly
turned our attention to Eagle Mountain as we descended the same scramble
route and headed eastward into the open desert. Travel was initially easy
despite the lack of trails, but my main concern was figuring out which
part of Eagle Mountain to aim for. Based on the online trip reports I had
read, I knew that we had to find a canyon to access the upper mountain,
but from a distance, the entire western aspect of Eagle Mountain seemed
featureless. As we got closer to the mountain though, we also began
running into increasingly more gigantic boulders strewn across the landscape. Though interesting in
and of themselves, the boulders presented
serious route-finding challenges for us, and we expended a lot of time
and effort trying to navigate over and around them. With some trial and
error, we eventually found the canyon--basically a large drainage--and
began ascending the mountain in earnest. Although we made steady progress
up the canyon, this part of the ascent felt interminable, and we were
already feeling quite weary by the time we topped out on a plateau of
sorts. The remaining traverse to the summit turned out to be more
complicated than expected as we had to lose hard-won elevation and
also do some extra route-finding to get past more problematic boulders. A
few cairns proved to be helpful, but I did not feel a sense of relief
until we finally stepped onto the summit.
Zosia and I took a well-deserved break atop Eagle Mountain
before commencing our descent. The return across the plateau went a
little more smoothly since we avoided some of the route-finding mistakes I made
earlier. Descending the canyon felt just as long as the ascent but was
otherwise uneventful. When we reached the desert flats, we veered a
little further north in an effort to steer clear of the boulders that
gave us so much trouble earlier in the day. Whenever we could, we tried
to take advantage of easier walking in the sandy washes, but this seemed
to constantly pull us further away from where we were aiming to go,
namely Mastodon Peak. Inevitably, we had to take a more direct
line, but this involved lots of ups and downs and additional
route-finding. With daylight waning, we finally stumbled into a big
wash that eventually led us back to the Mastodon Peak Loop Trail.
Turning right, we completed the loop in the same counterclockwise
direction that we started the day with and made it back to our car just
as darkness fell.
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Zosia begins the long off-trail
approach to Eagle Mountain in the distance. |
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Flat, sandy washes allow easier progress across the desert. |
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Sonny inadvertently wanders into boulder-filled terrain where
route-finding is much more challenging.
Photo courtesy of Zosia Zgolak |
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The mouth of the canyon which grants access to the upper mountain is
straight ahead but still difficult to discern from this distance. |
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Sonny finds the skull of a bighorn sheep.
Photo courtesy of Zosia Zgolak |
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Zosia enters the canyon which leads to the upper mountain. |
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The canyon narrows in some spots but is generally easy to ascend. |
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After climbing out of the canyon, Zosia enters a plateau of sorts on the
upper mountain. The summit is visible in the distance but is still
deceptively far away. |
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Boulder formations on the plateau present more route-finding challenges. |
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Zosia approaches the final rise before
the summit. |
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Sonny and Zosia stand on the summit of Eagle Mountain (1625 metres). |
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The Salton Sea is visible to the
south. |
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This is looking back west at the approach across the innocuous-looking
plateau. On the distant horizon at far left is San Jacinto Peak. |
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Part of a solar panel farm is barely
visible at distant centre in this view to the east. |
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To the southeast, the I-10 can be seen running across the length of the
valley. |
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Sonny descends the access canyon.
Photo courtesy of Zosia Zgolak |
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Zosia finds herself back in the desert flats after exiting the canyon. |
Zosia is almost back at the trailhead after sunset.
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Total
Distance: 19.9 kilometres
Round-Trip Time: 9 hours 38 minutes
Cumulative Elevation Gain: 789 metres
GPX Data |