BOU AVENUE
Dinosaur Provincial Park
With cold and windy conditions prevailing in
the mountains on 16 November 2024, Zosia Zgolak and I opted to go hiking
in Dinosaur Provincial Park located about 48 kilometres northeast of
Brooks, Alberta. This would be Zosia's second visit to the park and
my first. The park is a
UNESCO World
Heritage Site renowned for its unique badlands topography and
abundance of dinosaur fossils. As such, most of the park is either
closed to the public or only accessible through guided tours.
Having said that, there is still plenty of room for exploration just
within the small section of the park that is open to the public, and we
would cover a good chunk of this on four separate short hikes.
Driving directions and a handy
trail map are among the many useful resources found on the park's
website.
Zosia and I began our visit with a brief stop at a viewpoint near the
park entrance before driving to a large parking lot (50.76163,
-111.51951) near the campground registration building. From the
parking lot, we walked past some washrooms to the start of Coulee View
trail next to the park's visitor centre. We hiked a partial loop of
the trail in a counter-clockwise direction before taking a short
connector which drops down to the nearby campground. At the south
end of the campground, we picked up another trail which runs alongside
Little Sandhill Creek. For some reason, this trail has been
shortened by about half a kilometre, but with the scenery not really
changing much, I do not think we missed out on anything extraordinary.
At one point, I spotted a couple of fish
washed up on the edge of Little Sandhill Creek which was not much more
than a series of small shallow pools connected by pathetic trickles of
water. One of the fish was still moving a bit, but it was in a spot that
was difficult to access. Zosia and I pretty much assumed that it was on its last
legs anyway and carried on hiking into the coulee. Returning to the same
spot about forty minutes later, we took a quick peek at the fish and
noticed that the one that had been moving had flopped itself even further
from the water's edge. Yet, it was still alive. Determined to help the
fish, I managed, with some difficulty, to work my way down into the creek
bed. Surprisingly, I discovered that the other fish that had not moved
was also still alive. With my bare hands, I pushed both fish into an
adjacent shallow pool, and they responded well by swimming vigorously and
disappearing under an embankment. I was pretty happy about the rescue
until we went to the visitor centre later in the day and discovered that
I had inadvertently saved a couple of Prussian carp, an invasive species
that the Alberta government has been working hard to eradicate. Fortunately, Little Sandhill Creek was virtually dried up, and I doubt
that the carp I saved would have made it very far beyond the small pool
where they ended up.
Little Sandhill Creek trail runs along the bottom of
the coulee.
After returning from our first hike, Zosia and I next drove along the Public Loop Road to a pullout (50.76074,
-111.51156) which is the trailhead for Badlands Trail. We hiked the
straightforward loop trail in a counter-clockwise direction without any
trouble. Intrigued by a wooden staircase and various trail markers to the
north of the pullout, we extended our hike to portions of different
trails at the western end of the Public Loop Road including some with
exotic names like "Gorgosaurus Gully" and "Ornithomimid Overlook". Unsure
of where most of these trails went, we cut short our wanderings here and
returned to the pullout.Our next stop was at two fossil exhibits near the east end of the
Public
Loop Road. Housed within protective buildings, the exhibits showcase a
couple of dinosaur fossil excavation sites. From the parking lot
(50.76559, -111.49875) beside "Fossil Display 2", Zosia and I hiked the
Trail of the Fossil Hunters which leads to another interpretive display
about half a kilometre away. We then extended the hike to Upper
Cretaceous Trail and Extinction Expedition trail mainly because we wanted
to check out a couple of log ladders that we spotted from a distance. Once again, we were not sure where these other trails ended up, and as
such, we went off-trail for a bit before eventually muddling our way back
to the Trail of the Fossil Hunters and subsequently the trailhead.
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Zosia approaches the building housing
"Fossil Display 1". |
|
Here are the contents of "Fossil
Display 2". |
Zosia follows the Trail of the Fossil Hunters.
Zosia hikes off-trail to try and find her way back to
the Trail of the Fossil Hunters.
|
Total Distance: 1.8 kilometres
Round-Trip Time: 41 minutes
Cumulative Elevation Gain: 20 metres
GPX Data |
Our final hike in the park was on the easy Cottonwood Flats loop trail
which begins from a pullout (50.76571, -111.50591) on the north side of
the Public Loop Road. Unlike the previous trails we hiked, there are no
badlands formations here, but the trail features some impressive
cottonwood trees as well as nice views of Red Deer River. As a bonus, we
spotted nine mule deer scattered throughout the loop.
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A couple of mule deer wander among the
grass near Cottonwood Flats trail. |
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Sonny tries to mimic what appears to
be a spooky face on the stripped trunk at left.
Photo courtesy of Zosia Zgolak |
This area through which Red Deer River flows is known
as Deadlodge Canyon.
|
This slowly-dying cottonwood tree is
estimated to be about 200 years old. This tree was thriving
when Red Deer River used to be much closer to it. As the river
began meandering further away over the years though, it has become
increasingly difficult for the tree's roots to gather enough water to
support the tree. Hence, the tree's slow demise is inevitable.
Photo courtesy of Zosia Zgolak |
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Two more mule deer--a mother and
fawn--find sanctuary in the tall grasses here. |
|
Total Distance: 1.6 kilometres
Round-Trip Time: 45 minutes
Cumulative Elevation Gain: 21 metres
GPX Data |
When we finished hiking, Zosia and I stopped briefly at the visitor
centre before driving back up to the same viewpoint we visited before
entering the park. The persistent cloud cover that we had all day finally
gave way to sunshine which made for a much better panoramic view. It was
a fitting end to an utterly enjoyable day in Dinosaur Provincial Park.
Suspended from the ceiling at the visitor centre is
this Gorgosaurus
skeleton.
The view from near the entrance to the park is
dramatically improved by late day sunshine.
|
This whimsical display is located at
the intersection of Alberta Highways 544 and 876.
Photo courtesy of Zosia Zgolak |