Skylight Cave, Little Belknap And Belknap Crater

BOU AVENUE
Skylight Cave, Little Belknap And Belknap Crater

August 9, 2024 turned out to be a bit of a hectic day for Zosia Zgolak and me as we made some last-second changes to our vacation plans early in the morning. We started the day by paying a visit to central Oregon's Skylight Cave which I had only discovered by chance while perusing Google Maps. The main attraction of the cave--actually a lava tube--arises from dramatic light beams which, depending on weather conditions and time of day, are created by sunlight shining through holes in the ceiling. The cave is open to the general public, but getting there is a bit tricky and requires careful navigation of back roads through some stretches of private land.

From Highway 126/20, turn south onto paved National Forest (NF) 2060 (McAllister Road) 26.0 kilometres east of the junction with Highway 22 or 15.0 kilometres northwest of the junction with West Hood Avenue in Sisters. Drive 710 metres and turn right onto NF 2061 (2WD gravel). Keep straight at all junctions for the next 7.9 kilometres before turning left at a T-junction with NF 1028. Drive 1.0 kilometre and turn left again onto Road 260 (high-clearance recommended). Drive another kilometre or so and park in a widened section of road. The signed cave entrance is just a short distance further east along Road 260.

Nobody else was around as Zosia and I descended a metal ladder into Skylight Cave. The lava tube stretches away in opposite directions from the entrance, and we first headed roughly eastward to the main attraction. We did not have far to walk before reaching the chamber with the holes in the ceiling. I think we arrived maybe a little too early in the day for the full effect, but the light beams we saw were still amazing. We were also fortunate to have the entire chamber to ourselves for over twenty minutes until the arrival of other visitors prompted us to depart. Before climbing to the surface, we also explored the other more neglected arm of the lava tube. This arm is longer and darker, and it ultimately dead-ends without much fanfare. After exiting Skylight Cave, we returned to our car and drove out a different back road to get to our next objective.

	Zosia descends a ladder into Skylight Cave.
	Zosia enters the lava tube where the "skylights" are located.
	Zosia finally sees the light.

Totally cool!

The light beams slowly change as the sun moves across the sky above the holes in the ceiling.

	Here is a look back at the light beams from near the end of the lava tube.
	Zosia explores the less interesting lava tube at the other end of Skylight Cave.

Next up was an ascent of Belknap Crater, a shield volcano located in Mount Washington Wilderness. The top of the crater is easily accessed by a faint trail that branches off from the well-traveled Pacific Crest Trail (PCT), and a subsidiary cinder cone--Little Belknap--can also be tagged with minimal extra effort. Most of the approach along the PCT is through a vast lava field with virtually no shade and absolutely no water, and Zosia and I were well aware that we would be attempting this hike during the hottest part of the day under a full sun.

The trailhead for Little Belknap and Belknap Crater is located on the north side of Highway 242 (44.25992, -121.80979) about 850 metres west of McKenzie Pass. Toilets are available at Dee Wright Observatory near the pass.

Before starting our hike, Zosia and I paid a short visit to the Dee Wright Observatory which was built by the Civilian Conservation Corps in 1935. Made entirely from local lava rocks, the observatory is comprised of a viewing platform and an open shelter with strategically-placed holes to help identify distant peaks on the surrounding horizon. The unique look of the observatory reminded me a lot of Weathertop (Amon Sûl) as depicted in Peter Jackson's movie adaptation of J.R.R. Tolkien's fantasy masterpiece Lord of the Rings.

	Zosia approaches Dee Wright Observatory.
	This disc atop the observatory helps identify distant peaks. Zosia is pointing toward Belknap Crater. Also visible are Little Belknap and Mount Washington.
	Inside the observatory are little labeled holes lined up to also help identify distant peaks.

Leaving the observatory, Zosia and I drove to the trailhead for Belknap Crater and finally started our hike at 11:25 AM. Following the PCT, we winded around two forested humps before entering the aforementioned vast lava field. As expected, the midday sun was intense, but on this day, we were very fortunate to have a breeze which helped to keep the heat from becoming unbearable. Approximately 3.5 kilometres from the trailhead, we turned right at a signed junction for a short detour to Little Belknap. Barely rising above the surrounding lava field, this subsidiary cinder cone is a fine viewpoint in its own right, and there are even some small lava tubes nearby that can be fun to explore. The entire detour to tag the summit of Little Belknap and return to the junction took us about 45 minutes.

	Zosia checks out some information about the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) at the trailhead for Belknap Crater.
	Despite the predominantly dry conditions in the area, there are still huckleberries to be found in the forest not far from the trailhead.
	Zosia approaches a vast lava field with Belknap Crater and Little Belknap visible in the distance.

One does not simply walk into Mordor...

Zosia follows the PCT into the lava field.

	Zosia turns off the PCT for a short detour to Little Belknap.
	Sonny peers into a small lava tube near Little Belknap. Photo courtesy of Zosia Zgolak
	Belknap Crater dominates the background as Zosia emerges from the other end of the lava tube in the previous photo.
	Zosia climbs up the last steep section of trail just before the top.
	Here is the view to the north from the top of Little Belknap.
	Sonny and Zosia stand on the summit of Little Belknap (1920 metres).
	Black Butte is the most notable landmark to the northeast.
	In this view to the south, the two forested humps near the trailhead can be seen at left.

Resuming our hike northward along the PCT, Zosia and I finally exited the lava field about 350 metres past the Little Belknap junction. A short distance further, we left the PCT and followed another trail heading directly toward Belknap Crater. This trail essentially makes a couple of switchbacks up the north ridge of the crater before ending on the summit. The pumicite underfoot here can be a little slippery to hike especially on steeper sections of trail, but we managed to finish the ascent without too much trouble. Even with the breeze, the hot sun made it too uncomfortable to linger on the summit, and after snapping a requisite photo, we dropped back down to the shade of some evergreen trees before stopping for an extended break.

When we were satisfactorily rested, Zosia and I retraced our steps back to the PCT and settled into a long but otherwise unremarkable march back to the trailhead.

Glad to be out of the lava field...for the time being! Leaving the PCT, Zosia follows a spur trail heading toward Belknap Crater.

This is the way! The trail can be seen zigzagging up to the north ridge of the crater.

It's a longer climb than it looks! Zosia climbs up the north ridge of the crater. Note the pumicite on the trail which can make for tricky footing.

Unfortunately, we didn't have the time or energy to circumnavigate the crater.

Zosia airs out her feet on top of Belknap Crater.

	Zosia and Sonny stand on the summit of Belknap Crater (2097 metres).
	Little Belknap is visible at left as Zosia descends from Belknap Crater.
	Total Distance: 11.6 kilometres Round-Trip Time: 6 hours 36 minutes Cumulative Elevation Gain: 548 metres GPX Data

	Leaving the PCT, Zosia follows a spur trail heading toward Belknap Crater.
	The trail can be seen zigzagging up to the north ridge of the crater.
	Zosia climbs up the north ridge of the crater. Note the pumicite on the trail which can make for tricky footing.