BOU AVENUE
South Sister
South Sister is the highest of the Three
Sisters volcanoes in central Oregon and also the third tallest mountain
in the state. With a relatively easy non-technical route all the
way to the top, South Sister is understandably a very popular hiking
objective. As such, a daily quota and permit system were introduced
in 2021 to limit the number of people who could ascend the mountain
during peak season (mid-June to mid-October). While I understand
the need to limit the number of visitors on the mountain, the permit
system (administered through
recreation.gov) has been an enormous source of frustration for me
whenever I have tried to obtain permits for Devils Lake trailhead which
is the usual starting point for ascending South Sister. Despite all
my attempts at being proactive and flexible, it seemed like the release
of permits for South Sister was perpetually nonexistent or a virtual
crapshoot. At best, I could only ever see availability for a single
permit (ie. one hiker only, likely due to a cancellation) but never two
or more. I was beginning to think that the whole permit system was
rigged until recently when, by some miracle, I was shocked to see about
two dozen available permits. After a lot of blood, sweat and tears,
I finally secured two permits for hiking South Sister on 11 August
2024.
Camping is allowed at Devils Lake trailhead (44.03366, -121.76736), and
after arriving the previous evening, Zosia and I got up super early (ie.
in the middle of the night) to eat a quick breakfast before setting off with headlamps. The trail to South Sister used to start
beside the vault toilet near the north end of the trailhead parking lot, but it was
probably decommissioned to eliminate the risk of dashing across the
nearby Cascade Lakes Highway. Instead, the South Sister trail now
shares the same start as the Wickiup Plain trail near the west side of
the same parking lot. Seemingly counter-intuitively, we started
hiking southward but only for a short distance before turning west to go
through a tunnel under the highway. After passing the junction
where the Wickiup Plain trail splits off to the west, we soon crossed
Tyee Creek on a footbridge and settled into a long and steady climb up a
drainage between Kaleetan Butte and Devils Hill. The trail was
well-maintained here and not overly steep which made for generally
enjoyable hiking. By the time
we reached a treeless plateau near Moraine Lake, it was light enough for
us to put away our headlamps, and we got our first good look at our
objective.After crossing the
plateau, Zosia and I passed through a short stretch of forest before
grinding up a big open slope. The trail is steeper here and is also
heavily braided, but with good visibility, we had no trouble staying on
track. The last part of this slope just below a tarn has perhaps
the sketchiest section of trail on the entire mountain. There was a
lot of loose and slippery rubble here, and some care and focus were
required to maintain good footing. The aforementioned tarn was a
good place for us to stop and catch our breaths before the final lengthy
push up a lateral moraine and then a steep slope of red pumice. I
felt weary and slowed considerably here, but otherwise, we had no other
issues reaching the crater rim of South Sister. The actual summit
is on the far side of the crater, and like the majority of other hikers,
we circled the rim in a counterclockwise direction on a well-beaten path
before finishing the ascent with a short and easy scramble. With a
steady stream of other hikers arriving and congregating at the summit, we
decided to move further around the rim to find a quieter spot for an
extended break.
Zosia and I spent a good hour relaxing on
the crater rim before reluctantly resuming our hike. We had to do a
little bit of scrambling to get down a short dip before climbing back up
to complete our circumnavigation of the crater. Once we returned to
the spot where we first gained the rim, we simply retraced our steps down
the mountain. Some of the red pumice high up worked well for a bit
of scree surfing, but otherwise, it was mostly a long and relentlessly
knee-jarring descent. We had a bit of a reprieve from the constant
downhill pull when we re-crossed the treeless plateau, but the final
section down the drainage, while not so steep, felt interminable. When we reached Tyee Creek, we took another
extended break here to refresh ourselves in the icy waters before walking
the final short distance back to the trailhead. Somewhat
disappointingly, there were no conservation officers there checking for
our hard-won permits.
Here is a look back down south from the top of Lewis
Glacier.
|
Zosia hikes along the crater rim with
the summit just ahead. |
|
The northeast side of the mountain is
covered by Prouty Glacier. |
|
Zosia sits atop the summit of South
Sister (3157 metres). |
The view to the north is dominated by Middle Sister and
North Sister. Also visible behind North Sister are Mount Jefferson
and Mount Hood.
Inside the crater of South Sister is the eye-catching
Teardrop Pool.