BOU AVENUE
Little Bourgeau
In spite of an unpromising weather forecast
in the mountains, Shaun Luong, Zosia Zgolak and I made an attempt to
climb unofficially-named "Little Bourgeau"--the eastern outlier of Mount
Bourgeau--in Alberta's Banff National Park on 5 September 2026. The
earliest online documentation for an ascent route I could find is a 2022
entry in
peakery.com by someone named Randy followed by Jack Van Lierop's 2024
post in
peakbagger.com. For his 2025 ascent, Devan Peterson used a
refined version of Randy's route which was subsequently repeated in short
order by Rafal Kazmierczak,
Andrew Nugara and
Vern Dewit.
Peterson's route is unrelentingly steep rising over a vertical kilometre
in well under three kilometres (~36% grade or slope angle of nearly
20 degrees!), but we were up for the challenge as long as the weather
held.
Starting from a pullout (51.12501, -115.73233) along Sunshine Road,
Shaun, Zosia and I crossed to the north side of the road and ascended an
obvious trail rising up an embankment from right to left. This
trail makes a no-nonsense beeline for the base of some cliffs guarding
the south side of Mount Bourgeau's east ridge, and I was already
breathing heavily from the initial climb. We then thrashed
through a stretch of forest abutting the base of the cliffs before
breaking out of the trees onto a steep grassy slope. Numerous
intermittent sheep trails cut across this slope, and we tried our best to
follow them westward under the cliffs. We eventually reached the
bottom of a big rubble-filled gully where we settled into a lengthy
upward grind with a few minor detours to avoid some short cliff bands.
Higher up, the gully widens into an amphitheatre where we spotted a cave
mentioned in Van Lierop's post. At this point, the weather was
deteriorating, and we were slowly getting soaked by wet snow. We
scrambled up to the cave where we were able to take temporary shelter
from the snow, but with no hope that the weather would improve, we
decided to pull the plug on the ascent.
Shaun, Zosia and I checked out the back of
the shallow cave before exiting and descending the amphitheatre.
The wet snow created slippery conditions, and we had to be extra cautious
with our footing the whole way down the gully. By the time we
reached the steep grassy slope, much of the precipitation had ceased, and
we could relax a bit as we made our way back along the base of the cliffs
under the east ridge. Knowing where the sheep trails went, we were
a little more efficient descending this section, but lower down, we still
had some wet bush and steep terrain to contend with. At one point
or another, we all took minor tumbles while descending the slick trail
near the bottom, and I even snapped one of my hiking poles and lost the
broken piece somewhere in the thick vegetation. Fortunately,
nothing more serious happened, and we eventually arrived back at my car
looking like three drowned rats but happy to have made it down safely.
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Zosia and Shaun climb steeply right
from the get-go. |
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Mount Bourgeau
appears through the mist as Shaun and Zosia traverse a steep grassy
slope. |
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A bighorn sheep peers curiously over
the edge of a cliff. |
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Shaun and Zosia aim for the obvious
gully in the distance. |
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Shaun and Zosia explore a shallow cave
located high on the mountain a little off the ascent route. |
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The cave provides shelter from snowy
conditions outside. |
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Despite aborting their summit attempt
and getting thoroughly soaked by precipitation and wet vegetation,
Shaun and Zosia arrive back at the car in good spirits. |
Assured of stellar weather on 19 September 2026, Zosia and I
returned for a second attempt at Little Bourgeau (Shaun was already
traveling abroad and unavailable). I am uncertain if we were
climbing any faster, but familiarity with the route certainly helped with
route-finding efficiency especially along the steep grassy slope below
the cliffs and in the rubble-filled gully. When we reached the
amphitheatre again, we skipped the cave and scrambled up increasingly
loose terrain further to climber's right. The crux is a short but
exposed crack along a down-sloping slab which we scrambled up with
some difficulty. We both agreed that it was a good call to abort
the climb two weeks earlier as the crux would have been much trickier to
ascend and descend in wet conditions. Above the crux, we groveled
up some more aggravatingly loose rubble before escaping to climber's
right to reach the broad crest of the east ridge. From there, the
remaining hike to the top of Little Bourgeau was pleasant and
straightforward. After snapping some requisite photographs and
signing the register, we retreated a short distance below the summit
before taking a lengthy lunch break.For our descent, Zosia and I
backed out the same way we came. The crux was a bit awkward to
down-climb, but we both managed to get through without any mishaps.
The ensuing descent of the rubble-filled gully and the traverse of the
steep grassy slope all went without a hitch. Even in dry
conditions, the final steep section near the bottom was challenging to
descend, but we were extra careful this time to avoid taking any
inadvertent tumbles. It was also much nicer to return to our car
with dry gear.
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Zosia begins her second attempt at
climbing "Little Bourgeau". |
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The east face of Mount Bourgeau looks resplendent in the morning sun. |
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Zosia hugs the base of the cliffs as
she traverses the steep grassy slope. |
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Zosia grinds her way up the long and
steep rubble-filled gully. |
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Higher up, the gully widens into an amphitheatre surrounded by
complex terrain. |
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Zosia scrambles up a steep and loose
chute. |
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Zosia breathes a sigh of relief after
surmounting the exposed crux step (crack left of centre). |
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Above the crux, there is more steep and loose terrain to negotiate. |
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Zosia gains the broad east ridge of
Little Bourgeau. |
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The remainder of the climb is an easy hike. |
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Sonny and Zosia stand on the summit of
Little Bourgeau (2692 metres). |
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Mount Bourgeau dominates the view to
the southwest. Also visible at distant far left is
The Monarch. |
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Here is the view to the northwest. |
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In this view to the north,
Mount Ishbel
is difficult to discern in front of Mystic Peak. |

The town of Banff is visible at distant right in this
view to the northeast.