BOU AVENUE
Little Bourgeau
In spite of an unpromising weather forecast in the mountains, Shaun Luong, Zosia Zgolak and I made an attempt to climb unofficially-named "Little Bourgeau"--the eastern outlier of Mount Bourgeau--in Alberta's Banff National Park on 5 September 2026.  The earliest online documentation for an ascent route I could find is a 2022 entry in peakery.com by someone named Randy followed by Jack Van Lierop's 2024 post in peakbagger.com.  For his 2025 ascent, Devan Peterson used a refined version of Randy's route which was subsequently repeated in short order by Rafal Kazmierczak, Andrew Nugara and Vern Dewit.  Peterson's route is unrelentingly steep rising over a vertical kilometre in well under three kilometres (~36% grade or slope angle of nearly 20 degrees!), but we were up for the challenge as long as the weather held.

Starting from a pullout (51.12501, -115.73233) along Sunshine Road, Shaun, Zosia and I crossed to the north side of the road and ascended an obvious trail rising up an embankment from right to left.  This trail makes a no-nonsense beeline for the base of some cliffs guarding the south side of Mount Bourgeau's east ridge, and I was already breathing heavily from the initial climb.  We then thrashed through a stretch of forest abutting the base of the cliffs before breaking out of the trees onto a steep grassy slope.  Numerous intermittent sheep trails cut across this slope, and we tried our best to follow them westward under the cliffs.  We eventually reached the bottom of a big rubble-filled gully where we settled into a lengthy upward grind with a few minor detours to avoid some short cliff bands.  Higher up, the gully widens into an amphitheatre where we spotted a cave mentioned in Van Lierop's post.  At this point, the weather was deteriorating, and we were slowly getting soaked by wet snow.  We scrambled up to the cave where we were able to take temporary shelter from the snow, but with no hope that the weather would improve, we decided to pull the plug on the ascent.

Shaun, Zosia and I checked out the back of the shallow cave before exiting and descending the amphitheatre.  The wet snow created slippery conditions, and we had to be extra cautious with our footing the whole way down the gully.  By the time we reached the steep grassy slope, much of the precipitation had ceased, and we could relax a bit as we made our way back along the base of the cliffs under the east ridge.  Knowing where the sheep trails went, we were a little more efficient descending this section, but lower down, we still had some wet bush and steep terrain to contend with.  At one point or another, we all took minor tumbles while descending the slick trail near the bottom, and I even snapped one of my hiking poles and lost the broken piece somewhere in the thick vegetation.  Fortunately, nothing more serious happened, and we eventually arrived back at my car looking like three drowned rats but happy to have made it down safely.
Let the grunting begin... Zosia and Shaun climb steeply right from the get-go.
New ski touring terrain! Mount Bourgeau appears through the mist as Shaun and Zosia traverse a steep grassy slope.
Baaaa... A bighorn sheep peers curiously over the edge of a cliff.
The grassy slope is actually more rocky than it appears. Shaun and Zosia aim for the obvious gully in the distance.
No headlamp required. Shaun and Zosia explore a shallow cave located high on the mountain a little off the ascent route.
Brrrr...freezing cold here! The cave provides shelter from snowy conditions outside.
Good Type 2 fun! Despite aborting their summit attempt and getting thoroughly soaked by precipitation and wet vegetation, Shaun and Zosia arrive back at the car in good spirits.
Assured of stellar weather on 19 September 2026, Zosia and I returned for a second attempt at Little Bourgeau (Shaun was already traveling abroad and unavailable).  I am uncertain if we were climbing any faster, but familiarity with the route certainly helped with route-finding efficiency especially along the steep grassy slope below the cliffs and in the rubble-filled gully.  When we reached the amphitheatre again, we skipped the cave and scrambled up increasingly loose terrain further to climber's right.  The crux is a short but exposed crack along a down-sloping slab which we scrambled up with some difficulty.  We both agreed that it was a good call to abort the climb two weeks earlier as the crux would have been much trickier to ascend and descend in wet conditions.  Above the crux, we groveled up some more aggravatingly loose rubble before escaping to climber's right to reach the broad crest of the east ridge.  From there, the remaining hike to the top of Little Bourgeau was pleasant and straightforward.  After snapping some requisite photographs and signing the register, we retreated a short distance below the summit before taking a lengthy lunch break.

For our descent, Zosia and I backed out the same way we came.  The crux was a bit awkward to down-climb, but we both managed to get through without any mishaps.  The ensuing descent of the rubble-filled gully and the traverse of the steep grassy slope all went without a hitch.  Even in dry conditions, the final steep section near the bottom was challenging to descend, but we were extra careful this time to avoid taking any inadvertent tumbles.  It was also much nicer to return to our car with dry gear.
Let's try this again! Zosia begins her second attempt at climbing "Little Bourgeau".
It gleams! The east face of Mount Bourgeau looks resplendent in the morning sun.
The sheep know where to go! Zosia hugs the base of the cliffs as she traverses the steep grassy slope.
See the cave? Zosia grinds her way up the long and steep rubble-filled gully.
So much nicer when the weather is dry and sunny! Higher up, the gully widens into an amphitheatre surrounded by complex terrain.
Very unpleasant terrain here! Zosia scrambles up a steep and loose chute.
Great job, Zosia! Zosia breathes a sigh of relief after surmounting the exposed crux step (crack left of centre).
Need to escape to climber's right here! Above the crux, there is more steep and loose terrain to negotiate.
You can relax now! Zosia gains the broad east ridge of Little Bourgeau.
No problemo! The remainder of the climb is an easy hike.
Second time lucky! Sonny and Zosia stand on the summit of Little Bourgeau (2692 metres).
The summit of Mount Bourgeau looks closer than 1.6 kilometres. Mount Bourgeau dominates the view to the southwest.  Also visible at distant far left is The Monarch.
Can you spot Mount Hector almost 60 km away? Here is the view to the northwest.
Mount Ishbel was the inspiration for the painting "Mountain Forms" by Lawren Harris. In this view to the north, Mount Ishbel is difficult to discern in front of Mystic Peak.

Look at all the golden larches!

The town of Banff is visible at distant right in this view to the northeast.

 

Very unpleasant terrain here! After leaving the crest of the east ridge, Zosia makes a controlled stumble down some awful rubble.
Doing the crab walk! Sonny descends the crux step on his butt.

Photo courtesy of Zosia Zgolak

Didn't we see you guys two weeks ago? Some bighorn sheep make an appearance near the bottom of the access gully.
Still some stressful moments to come... Zosia traverses back along the steep grassy slope on the lower mountain.
If you like steep, no-nonsense ascents, this one's for you! Total Distance:  5.7 kilometres
Round-Trip Time:  7 hours 23 minutes
Cumulative Elevation Gain:  1024 metres

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