BOU AVENUE
Mount Edith
On 6 July 2003, I scrambled up all three summits of Mount Edith in Banff National Park.  Cory Pass trail was very busy on this day, but I still managed to get to the pass in about two hours.  From there, I headed eastward toward the north peak (highest at 2553 metres).  Although the summit of the north peak is guarded by cliff bands, there are two cracks, described by Alan Kane, that allow access to the top for non-technical climbers like myself.  I ascended the northwest-facing crack with some difficulty, but I eventually got up and over.  On the descent, I chose the south-facing crack which is not as steep but is longer and narrower (not for oversized or claustrophobic people).
North Peak
This is the view of the north peak on the approach from Cory Pass.
Northwest-Facing Crack
This is the northwest-facing crack.
One down, two to go...
Sonny contemplates the traverse over to the centre peak.  The south peak is also visible.
South-Facing Crack
A scrambler heads up the south-facing crack.
The centre peak is by far the easiest of the three to ascend.  I had no difficulties crossing the intervening ridge between the north and centre peaks.  There were some lingering snow patches on the route, but I was able to avoid most of them on my way to the top of the centre peak.  From there, I dropped down a very steep (but thankfully very dry) gully to the col between the centre and south peaks.
Piece of cake!
Sonny heads for the centre peak.
Limerick of the day...
The canister in the summit cairn of the centre peak didn't contain a register booklet.  Luckily (or unluckily), Sonny brought his own pen and paper.
If not the most difficult to ascend, the south peak is by far the most intimidating.  Getting to the top of the south peak involves wriggling through a steep tunnel, traversing across the exposed west face, climbing up some rocks wedged behind a giant stone flake, and finishing with an exhilarating walk up the narrow summit ridge.

When I reached the col, I could see a man and a woman (they had technical gear and were roped up) at the entrance to the tunnel.  From the top of the centre peak, I had seen them earlier sitting on an exposed ledge which is an alternative to going through the tunnel.  It looked as if they had attempted to go around on the exposed ledge but backed off and now were trying the tunnel.  They were fussing around the tunnel entrance for what seemed like an eternity before the woman started climbing up.  During this time, I was at the col waiting for them to clear the tunnel entrance.  Then I heard the woman saying something to the effect that she didn't feel comfortable and that if she fell she would fall past her partner.  I knew then that they weren't going any further.  I began climbing carefully up to the tunnel entrance.  When I got there, the man was belaying his partner, and they were both on their way down.  I waited until they cleared the area immediately below the tunnel entrance before continuing up.

I had some difficulty getting up a steep ledge inside, but overall, I thought the tunnel was easier to negotiate than the two cracks on the north peak.  Beyond the tunnel, numerous cairns and beaten trails led me up to the big flake.  Once past this obstacle, I easily scampered up the summit ridge and stood atop the south peak.  Descending the peak turned out to be easier than I expected, and I was soon back at the col and working my way down to the Cory Pass trail from there.  I cruised back to the parking lot with a round-trip time of about 7.5 hours.
South Peak
This is the south peak as seen from the gully coming off of the centre peak.  Click here for an enlarged photo of the tunnel entrance.
Three! Three at last!
Sonny bags the south peak to cap off an interesting day of scrambling.