Because
of some haze in the air, the views of Mount Forbes and Freshfield
Icefield from Mount Sarbach's summit were somewhat disappointing, but the
weather was so nice that I stayed there for well over an hour (or more
likely it took me that long to think of a limerick for the summit
register) before reluctantly beginning my long descent. After
bypassing the false summit, I essentially retraced my steps back down the
north ridge. Descending below the first notch, I thought I was
pretty much home free, but as if the scrambling deities weren't going to
let me bag such a big peak without exacting some sort of penance (and as
if 1630 metres of height gain and numerous difficult cruxes weren't
enough), I completely missed the lookout site and somehow ended up in a
bushy avalanche gully further south of the access trail. Feeling a
little annoyed, I headed north and powered my way through the undergrowth
until I finally stumbled upon the trail; now I was home free. Climbing the last 40
metres out of Mistaya Canyon, I passed a group of tired kayakers slowly hauling
their kayaks and gear up to the trail head. I didn't speak to any
of them, but I wondered what adventures they had that day and if
those were as exhilarating as my scramble up Mount Sarbach (12 hours
round-trip).
![The true summit is not visible here.](sarbach01.jpg) |
This is the view of Mount Sarbach from
the trail head. The letter N marks the second (more difficult)
notch. |
!['Lookout' is kinda misleading as the trees obscure much of the views.](sarbach02.jpg) |
This is the former fire lookout site. |
![Check out Alan Kane's ascent of Mount Wilson here: http://www3.telus.net/alkane/wilson.htm](sarbach03.jpg) |
There is a clearer view of Mount
Wilson higher up the slope behind the lookout site. |
![Another classic 'bum' shot!](sarbach04.jpg) |
Just past the first notch, Sonny
scrambles up to the ridge crest. |
![You still have a long way to go, Sonny. Quit mugging for the camera!](sarbach05.jpg) |
Behind Sonny is Mount Sarbach's long
north ridge. This photo illustrates why Kane advises scramblers
not to "be lured into easier looking gullies angling down" from the
ridge on descent. |
![The scrambling on the other side is easier than it looks.](sarbach06.jpg) |
This is looking across the second
notch. |
![Some of the rocks are loose here. Check your holds carefully!](sarbach07.jpg) |
Sonny descends the difficult chimney. |
![Bring it on!](sarbach08.jpg) |
Sonny reaches the bottom of the
chimney (in shadow). |
![Dan Millar's old wallet is somewhere down by the shores of Glacier Lake!](sarbach09.jpg) |
From the ridge, there is already a
nice view of Glacier Lake and Lyell Icefield. |
![Sadly, this was the clearest view I had of Mount Forbes on this day.](sarbach10.jpg) |
Mount Forbes (3612 metres) pokes up
behind Mount Outram (3240 metres). |
![This reminds me of the plateau on Fisher Peak--a good place to while away the rest of the day!](sarbach11.jpg) |
Sonny crosses the "football
field-sized plateau". |
![Nice ice!](sarbach12.jpg) |
Here is a closer look at the glacier
hugging the face below the false summit of Mount Sarbach. |
![Great scrambling here!](sarbach13.jpg) |
Sonny scrambles up the steep ridge
leading to the false summit. |
![Hmmm...Squaw's Tit comes to mind!](sarbach14.jpg) |
Getting past the upper part of the
ridge requires some route-finding. The nipple at right is the
true summit. |
![Also visible is the confluence of Mistaya, Howse and North Saskatchewan Rivers.](sarbach15.jpg) |
This is looking down at the broad
north ridge of Mount Sarbach. |
![What can be more exciting than peaks and nipples?](sarbach16.jpg) |
Sonny approaches the top of the false
summit; the nipple here is a cairn. At left are the Kaufmann
Peaks (3109 metres). |
![The true summit is not as far as it looks, but the connecting ridge has a lot of loose rocks.](sarbach17.jpg) |
Leaving the false summit, Sonny heads
for the true summit in the distance. |
![Bypass the knob in front on the right side before scrambling back onto the ridge.](sarbach18.jpg) |
This is the view of the connecting
ridge to the true summit. |
![Almost there...really!!](sarbach19.jpg) |
This is the summit block of Mount
Sarbach. Note the footprints in the snow (a party of three
climbed the peak six days earlier). |
![It doesn't look like it from this angle, but the last few blocks are narrow and exposed.](sarbach20.jpg) |
Sonny takes the last few precarious
steps before the summit. |
![My topo map actually shows Mount Sarbach as being only 3127 metres. Another height controversy?](sarbach21.jpg) |
Sonny plants his foot triumphantly on
the true summit cairn of Mount Sarbach (3155 metres). |
![I bagged this peak exactly nine years, to the day, after Alan Kane!](sarbach22.jpg) |
Mount Sarbach's summit register is
almost as old as Sonny! In fact, the register's staples have
rusted and completely disintegrated. Thankfully, Sonny is still
going strong! |
![Paul Russell wants to bag this peak.](sarbach23.jpg) |
Dominating the view to the east is
Mount Murchison (3333 metres). |
![Best view of the day.](sarbach24.jpg) |
At centre in the distance behind
Epaulette Mountain (3095 metres) are Mount Chephren (3266 metres),
White Pyramid (3275 metres) and Howse Peak (3290 metres). |
![Nancy Hansen's last 11,000 footer!](sarbach25.jpg) |
Despite the haze, Mount Forbes still
looks impressive to the west. |
![I could use a nice cold drink right about now!](sarbach26.jpg) |
Sonny heads back along the north
ridge. The big peak on the horizon at left is Mount Cline (3361
metres). |
![Another amazing day in the Canadian Rockies!](sarbach27.jpg) |
Here's another look at Mount Chephren
and White Pyramid. |