BOU AVENUE
Great Northern Mountain
Great Northern Mountain is the highest peak
in the Great Bear Wilderness located south of Montana's Glacier National
Park. I first noticed this conspicuous peak from the summit of
Mount Furlong,
and afterward, I was happy to learn that there is a fairly
straightforward non-technical route up its northwest ridge as described
in
summitpost.org. Since Zosia Zgolak and I were in the area for
the long weekend, we decided to pay a visit to Great Northern Mountain on
6 August 2017.
After starting the day with breakfast at
Hungry Horse Dam, we drove to the trailhead for Great Northern Mountain as follows:
From Highway 2 at Martin City, Montana, look for the "EAST SIDE HUNGRY
HORSE RESERVOIR" sign and turn east onto Old US 2. Shortly after,
veer right onto Central Avenue and drive through the heart of Martin
City. Central Avenue eventually turns into East Side road which has
a good 2WD gravel surface. About 24.3 kilometres after turning off
from Highway 2, make a sharp hairpin left turn onto a narrower road
(still okay for 2WD) and drive for another 800 metres to a large pullout
on the left just before a decommissioned bridge over Hungry Horse Creek.
Surprisingly, there were already several cars in the pullout when we
arrived at the trailhead. As it turns out, Great Northern Mountain is a
much more popular hiking objective than I had expected, and we would
later encounter at least six separate parties on the mountain ranging
from solo hikers (some with dogs) to a huge group of young children with
their parents (and more dogs). Walking across to the north side of
the decommissioned bridge, we immediately turned right into a smaller
pullout and found the start of the trail. Hungry Horse Creek can be
accessed from this pullout and is essentially the only reliable water
source along the entire route besides Stanton Glacier near the summit.
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Hungry Horse Reservoir stretches away
to the southeast beyond the "glory hole" (spillway) at
Hungry Horse
Dam. The glory hole is the highest of its kind in the
world.
Photo courtesy of Zosia Zgolak
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Hungry Horse Dam is 172 metres high
and 645 metres long. Its width ranges from 98 metres at its
base to 10 metres at its top. |
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Sonny finds the start of the trail
near Hungry Horse Creek.
Photo courtesy of Zosia Zgolak |
If there was an award for the World's Most
Brutally Steep Trail, the one for Great Northern Mountain would win hands
down. There are virtually no switchbacks or flat spots along the
initial stretch of trail which climbs relentlessly straight up the steep
slope, gaining nearly 800 vertical metres over a distance of about 2.5
kilometres. Even Vancouver's infamous Grouse Grind is not this
steep! The one consolation was that we had more than half of the
elevation gain behind us already when we finally broke out of the forest
and onto the ridge crest. Continuing along the trail, we easily
hiked over or around several bumps along the ridge before reaching the
first of several false summits on the upper mountain. The remainder
of the ascent is a bit more complicated than a simple walk-up. The
trail braids in a few places here, and some route-finding is necessary to
avoid more difficult terrain. The crux is a short but exposed Class
3 step right on the ridge crest. While this step can be quite
challenging to non-scramblers, young children and dogs apparently climb
it with little difficulty.
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Zosia grinds her way up the steep
trail. |
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Zosia finds some relief from the steep hiking by picking huckleberries. |
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Here is one of the first clear views
of Great Northern Mountain from its northwest ridge. |
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Sonny holds a handful of ripe
huckleberries. |
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Part of Hungry Horse Reservoir is
visible from the northwest ridge. |
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The northwest ridge undulates a fair
bit along its entire length. |
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This is looking northeast toward some
of the peaks in the southern end of Glacier National Park.
Visible at left is Mount Stimson, the second highest peak in the
park. The striking peak to the right is Mount Saint Nicholas.
The strip of blue at centre is Stanton Lake. |
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Further up the ridge, the trail skirts
rather close to some significant drop-offs. |
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This intrepid skier
bivouacked on the summit the previous night and skied some turns on
the Stanton Glacier earlier in the morning before hiking out. |
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Zosia approaches the
first false summit that requires some hands-on scrambling. |
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Some of the scrambling on
the upper mountain is more challenging than expected. |
The strenuous ascent and warm temperatures took their toll on us, and
both Zosia and I were feeling fatigued by the time we staggered onto the
summit of Great Northern Mountain. We were fortunate to have the
summit all to ourselves initially, and consequently, we took an extended
break here to eat, drink and relax. I actually dozed off a few
times while sitting and chatting with Zosia and sometimes even with food
still half-chewed in my mouth! Later on, we were joined on the
summit by about a half dozen children, three adult chaperones and a very
energetic dog. The resulting circus-like atmosphere made it hard
for me to doze off again.
Sonny and Zosia stand on the summit of Great Northern
Mountain (2649 metres).
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To the southeast is Mount
Grant (right). |
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Part of Stanton Glacier can be seen on the north side of Great
Northern Mountain. |
After spending about 75 minutes on the summit, Zosia and I began our
descent. Some care and attention are needed to safely descend the
crux and negotiate the maze of braided trails on the upper mountain, but
once we got past the first false summit, we were able to relax and settle
into a long but uncomplicated plod down the rest of the northwest ridge.
As if we had not suffered enough though, the hot afternoon sun was
becoming increasingly unbearable and threatened to fry our heads.
We found some relief from the occasional breeze or trying to stay in
whatever shade we could find on the ridge. Our water supply was
still okay, but I was really craving something cold to drink. We
eventually found more shade when we re-entered the forest, but because of
a lack of wind, the air there was just as stifling. Worst of all
was the bone-jarring descent of the World's Most Brutally Steep Trail--a
truly soul-sucking experience. Fortunately, a cold splash and dunk
in Hungry Horse Creek near the trailhead did wonders for reviving our
spirits, and when we were thoroughly refreshed, we subsequently drove to
a secluded bay along Hungry Horse Reservoir to enjoy a well-deserved
dinner.
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Zosia starts to head back down the
northwest ridge. |
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Zosia has some fun at a natural arch
along the ridge. |
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Here is a more comprehensive view of
Stanton Glacier. Note the ski tracks. |
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Past all technical difficulties, Zosia
continues down the northwest ridge. |
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Zosia carefully walks along an exposed
section of the trail. |
Here is a last look at the west face of Great Northern
Mountain.
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Sonny cooks dinner beside where Hungry
Horse Creek empties into Emery Bay of Hungry Horse Reservoir.
Photo courtesy of Zosia Zgolak
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Total
Distance: 13.2 kilometres
Round-Trip Time: 9 hours 45 minutes
Net Elevation Gain: 1382 metres
GPX Data |