Upon arriving in Wrocław, we first visited Panorama Racławicka, a museum with a single exhibit--a 360-degree painting of the Battle of Racławice which took place on 4 April 1794. The battle was the start of a Polish uprising led by Tadeusz Kościuszko against the Russian Empire. While the uprising was ultimately crushed (leading to the Third Partition of Poland and the cessation of Polish sovereignty for 123 years), the Polish victory at Racławice remains a symbol of national pride and was commemorated in the panoramic painting which was completed by a team of Polish painters in 1894.
Our admission ticket to Panorama Racławicka allowed us free admission to a number of other museums in Wrocław, and we next visited the nearby National Museum which contains a large and varied collection of Polish artwork.
After our visit to the
museum, we checked into our accommodation at the Centrum Hostel to have a
rest before heading out again in the evening to tour Old Town.
While Old Town is admittedly touristy with an abundance of shops and
restaurants, it is nevertheless a great place to wander for a few hours
and admire some of the historic architecture. We also delighted in
discovering a few of the many little dwarf figurines which can be found
throughout the city. These figurines were initially created in 2005
as part of a social statement against communism, but as more and more of
them appeared over the years, they have evolved into one of Wrocław's
most popular tourist attractions. When we finally had our fill of
dwarfs and walking around Old Town, we returned to our hostel and retired
for the night.
Photo courtesy of Zosia Zgolak Across the Oder River is Ostrów Tumski,
the oldest part of Wrocław.
Photo courtesy of Zosia Zgolak Sonny relaxes in his room at the
hostel.
Photo courtesy of Zosia Zgolak
Photo courtesy of Zosia Zgolak
Photo courtesy of Zosia Zgolak These statues located in Jatki
Street are a memorial to slaughtered animals. In the past, this
was the location of the town's abattoir. Note the rooster at
upper left.
Photo courtesy of Zosia Zgolak
Photo courtesy of Zosia Zgolak Zosia and I
were originally scheduled to leave Wrocław on a late afternoon bus,
but having visited all the places we wanted to see by noon, we decided to
go to the bus depot to see if we could get our tickets changed to an
earlier departure. Unfortunately, the bus company would not allow
for ticket changes on the spot even though the earlier bus had plenty of
empty seats. We were told that we had to make the changes online,
and we likely would have had to pay extra. Abandoning our attempt to change our bus tickets, we ended up with
about four hours to kill. Rather than waste that time wandering the
shopping mall which stood above the bus depot, we walked about 4
kilometres northeast to the Four Domes Pavilion museum. This was
another museum that we could get into using our admission tickets from
Panorama Racławicka. Despite the long walk to get there, I
found the Four Domes Pavilion to be the most interesting of the three
museums we visited in Wrocław. The contemporary art displayed
there is probably not everyone's cup of tea, but I quite enjoyed the many thought-provoking exhibits. Even the
museum building itself is quite intriguing with its austere white walls
and open spaces. By the end of our visit to Four Domes Pavilion, we were starting to
feel a little weary, but we managed to hike another 4 kilometres back to
the bus depot for our scheduled departure to the next city on our
itinerary--Kraków.
Photo courtesy of Zosia Zgolak
Photo courtesy of Zosia Zgolak Sonny hangs out in front of a
bakery in Market Square.
Photo courtesy of Zosia Zgolak The Town Hall looks just as
impressive in daylight. Strange figures populate the
boulevard near Piaskowy bridge.
Photo courtesy of Zosia Zgolak This giant bishop stands outside
the Church of the Blessed Virgin Mary on the Sand. The
inscription below reads "We forgive and ask for forgiveness" in both
Polish and German.
Photo courtesy of Zosia Zgolak
Sonny walks toward a portrait of St. Elizabeth on an overpass in Ostrów Tumski.
Photo courtesy of Zosia Zgolak
Zosia tries to hitch a ride on a dwarf bus.
Photo courtesy of Zosia Zgolak The Grunwald Bridge's mix of steel
and granite gives it a distinctive look.
Photo courtesy of Zosia Zgolak
Photo courtesy of Zosia Zgolak This steeple in front of Centennial
Hall is nearly 100 metres high. Photo
courtesy of Zosia Zgolak This is the ceiling of one of the
domes at Four Domes Pavilion museum. Zosia falls in with a crowd of
headless figures made of burlap.
This is one of the larger paintings on display at Four
Domes Pavilion.
Zosia finds a friend with a similar smile.
The next morning, 4 January 2018, Zosia and I checked out of
our hostel and walked briefly through Old Town again before heading to
Ostrów Tumski, the oldest part of Wrocław. Formerly an island
in the branches of the Oder River, Ostrów Tumski is predominantly
occupied by cathedrals and other theological buildings.
Sonny listens to a recorded English tour
presentation at Panorama Racławicka. Behind him is
a section of the painting depicting the Battle of Racławice.
Zosia stands outside
Panorama Racławicka.
Zosia fills in for an absent saint
along this wall in the National Museum in
Wrocław.
The skier in the painting is uncannily
dressed just like Zosia.
Sonny tries to imitate the Fight and
Victory Fountain on Ruska Street.
Zosia finds her namesake dwarf, Zoska,
in front of Coctail Bar Max & Dom Whisky.
Zosia stands in front of the
Wrocław Town Hall.
Sonny
rubs Breslau Bear's tongue outside the Town Hall for good luck.
Prior to the end of World War 2, Wrocław was known as Breslau
and belonged to Germany.
Sonny steps outside of the Centrum
Hostel in the morning.
Old Town reveals its colours in
daytime.
Sonny walks along a scenic pathway
near the Wrocław University of Science and Technology.