BOU AVENUE
Castle Peak
Castle Peak is the highest point of the
White Cloud Mountains in central Idaho, and I have been itching to climb
it for years. Different climbing routes for this beautiful mountain
can be found in numerous sources, but I was most inspired by the 2002
trip report by
Dan Robbins who ascended via the main gully on the south face.
When Zosia Zgolak and I tried to climb the peak in
2019, we
abandoned our attempt due to excessive snow still choking the route in
the gully. On that trip, we started our hike from Fourth of July
trailhead which entails a relatively easy drive but a longer
approach on foot. This time, I decided to try the approach from
Washington Creek trailhead further to the south. This starting point
allows for a much shorter hike to Chamberlain Basin, but the price of
admission is a long and very arduous drive.
On 13 August 2022, Zosia and I drove northwest of Ketchum along Highway
75 over Galena Summit before turning east onto Pole Creek Road. The
ensuing drive to Washington Creek trailhead was quite an adventure
in itself. The first half of the approach is easy driving on a
good gravel road, but beyond a junction at about the 10.5-kilometre mark,
the road becomes narrower and rougher. Zosia got out of the car
regularly to remove some of the larger rocks protruding in the middle of the road, and a
couple of crossings of Germania Creek took a bit of courage to drive
through. Beyond Three Cabins Creek
trailhead at about the 20.0-kilometre mark, the road deteriorates even
more as it climbs over a steep hill before descending to a pullout and
campsite just before the trailhead (the rough road continues into
Washington Basin). It is a bit of
a minor miracle that my Honda CR-V was able to make it all the way there
especially when we passed a large group of dirt bikers who had to stop
after one of them got a flat tire.
My GPS track for the drive to Washington
Creek trailhead can be found
here, but to be honest, I
really cannot recommend
this approach even for those who have a high-clearance vehicle with 4x4
capability. It is a nerve-racking and punishing drive, and not even
dirt bikes or possibly ATVs are invulnerable. It is perhaps telling
that Zosia and I were all alone while camping near the trailhead that
night, and as far as I know, no one else we would later
encounter in Chamberlain Basin used the same approach as us.
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This is the first of two crossings of Germania Creek on the long and
arduous drive to Washington Creek trailhead. Watch a video of
this crossing here. A
video of the second crossing is available
here.
Photo courtesy of Zosia Zgolak
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Hazards abound on the road to the trailhead.
Photo courtesy of Zosia Zgolak
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Zosia and I got up before dawn on 14 August 2022, and after
finishing a quick breakfast, we loaded up our backpacks and crossed
Washington Creek on a log to reach the start of the actual trail.
Although we could have conceivably climbed Castle Peak from here as a
long day trip, we felt that it was worth hauling camping gear to stay
overnight at Chamberlain Basin in order to enjoy a more relaxed ascent
either later in the day or the following morning depending on how we were
feeling. With the exception of a few switchbacks which seemed a bit long-winded, the
hike to Chamberlain Basin was generally straightforward as we followed
forestry trails #051, #109, and #047. Signs at all junctions kept
us always pointed in
the right direction. At the saddle known as Chamberlain
Divide, we got our first unobstructed view of Castle Peak, and much to
our relief, it looked nearly bone-dry. When we subsequently descended into
Chamberlain Basin, we made the mistake of taking a short cut trail down
to one of the lakes where we had planned to set up camp. Although the
short cut is not terrible, it does add some unnecessary route-finding
challenges, and in retrospect, I would recommend just sticking to the
official trail. From Washington Creek trailhead, it took us four
hours to reach our intended lake, and upon arrival, we pitched our tent and ditched
all our camping gear before taking a well-deserved break for lunch.
Zosia arrives at Chamberlain Divide and has her first unobstructed view
of Castle Peak and its south face.
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Zosia descends into Chamberlain Basin on a good trail. |
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Zosia arrives at one of the more popular campsites beside an unnamed lake
in Chamberlain Basin. |
Feeling refreshed and not wanting to squander the great
weather, Zosia and I decided to ascend Castle Peak after lunch.
When we resumed hiking, we followed the continuation of the official
trail and crossed the outlet of our
lake to a signed T-intersection. By a strange coincidence, several other
groups of hikers also congregated there just as we arrived, and the
intersection felt like an outdoor party at that moment. Zosia and I
did not linger for the chit-chats and immediately headed off-trail to
begin climbing the lower slopes of Castle Peak's south face. No one
else at the party bothered to follow us. On the lower slopes, we
initially headed for an obvious grassy strip in hopes that it would
provide better footing, and perhaps not surprisingly, we found a good
beaten path here that led us to the base of the main gully. This
obvious wide gully rises diagonally from right to left on the south face
and is mostly an easy scramble until near the top. Note that there
is a narrower and steeper gully to climber's right which is also
frequently ascended by
peak-baggers.
The main gully also gets narrower and steeper near the top, and on this
day, there were still some lingering snow patches there.
Fortunately, we were able to avoid all the snow completely as we moved
out of the gully and began scrambling up the vertically-tilted slabs to
climber's right. There is some mild exposure here, but the rocks
are generally solid and easy to climb. A few cairns help point the
way, and we were soon clambering over large awkward boulders on the
summit ridge.
The top of Castle Peak has at least three distinct and separate high
points, and although the easternmost one is unquestionably lower, there
is some dispute about which of the other two--the middle and westernmost
high points--is truly higher. Upon reaching the westernmost high
point, Zosia and I were delighted to find a summit register and
surveyor's benchmark. Unfortunately, the connecting ridge to the
middle high point looked too technical for my liking, and I did not
bother to make the traverse to check its elevation. Regardless, I
think both high points are, at worst, roughly of equal height, and I have
no problem accepting the westernmost high point as the true summit just
like everyone else who had previously signed the register.
Blessed with fabulous weather and in no rush to get back to camp, Zosia
and I took an extended break at the top of Castle Peak before reluctantly
retracing our steps down the mountain. The trickiest part of the
descent was down-climbing the steep slabs to get back into the main
gully, but fortunately, we made it down safely without any mishaps.
The subsequent hike down the gully felt long and a bit tedious but was
otherwise uneventful. When we returned to our camp beside the lake,
we enjoyed a leisurely dinner before retiring to our tent for the night.
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Zosia begins her ascent of Castle Peak by following the grassy strip
ahead. |
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Zosia follows an obvious and wide gully which rises from right to left on the
south face of the mountain. |
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Most of the gully is not technically difficult to ascend. |
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Higher up, the gully becomes narrower
and steeper. It is necessary here to scramble up the rocks to
climber's right. |
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The scrambling here requires Zosia's full attention. |
Sonny and Zosia stand on the summit of Castle Peak (3598 metres).
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Here is the surveyor's benchmark on the summit of Castle Peak. |
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The view to the southwest includes some of the lakes in Chamberlain Basin
and the ridge (centre) which Zosia and Sonny ascended in 2019. Note
the huge wildfire at distant right. |
The rest of the White Cloud Peaks are a dazzling sight to the north.
At bottom is Quiet Lake.
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Castle Lake is the most notable feature in this view to the northeast. |
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Leaving the top, Zosia has to contend with big awkward boulders on the
summit ridge. |
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Sonny carefully picks his way down the mountain in the late afternoon.
Photo courtesy of Zosia Zgolak |
Here is another view of Castle Peak from the campsite late in the day.
The following morning (15 August 2022), Zosia and I had a nice breakfast
before striking camp and hiking out Chamberlain Basin. We stuck to
the official trail this time and had no issues climbing back over
Chamberlain Divide. The remainder of our hike back to Washington
Creek trailhead went without a hitch, and the only worry we had was the
drive out of the area.
I believe that knowing what to expect lessens the anxiety of driving
rough roads, and going mostly downhill also helps. Zosia again got
out of the car a few times to move rocks, but generally, I think we had a
much more efficient drive on the way out. After making it past the
roughest sections--the 3.5-kilometre stretch between Washington Creek
trailhead and Three Cabins Creek trailhead--in one piece, we had no
problems with the two crossings of Germania Creek. The remainder of
the drive back to the highway was still slow but comparatively easy, and
once we hit pavement again, we vowed never to drive such horrible roads
again...at least for the rest of the week!
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In the morning, Zosia enjoys a last tranquil moment at the campsite
before departing. |
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Castle Peak is reflected in a smaller lake in Chamberlain Basin. |
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Here is one last look at Castle Peak from Chamberlain Divide. |
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Sonny again drives his car through Germania Creek on the way out.
Photo courtesy of Zosia Zgolak |
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Total
Distance: 24.0 kilometres
Round-Trip Time: 28 hours 19 minutes
Cumulative Elevation Gain: 1749 metres
GPX Data |