Death Valley National Park

BOU AVENUE
Death Valley National Park

After staying in Las Vegas, Nevada for two nights, Zosia Zgolak and I drove out to California's Death Valley National Park on 18 October 2016 with plans to climb Telescope Peak the following day. We enjoyed a leisurely day visiting popular tourist spots such as Zabriskie Point, Badwater Basin and Artists Palette, some of which I had already previously visited in 2011. We also stopped in the visitor centre at Furnace Creek to check on road conditions and fill up some water bottles. From there, we headed to Stovepipe Wells and enjoyed a late lunch before continuing the long drive to Thorndike campground. Whereas the temperature at Furnace Creek was about 34°C, Thorndike campground was a startlingly chilly 5°C. We pitched Zosia's tent for the first time on our road trip here, but because of the frigid temperatures, I am not sure if I slept any better that night than previously in the back of my car.

	It is another beautiful morning in Las Vegas in this view from Zosia's and Sonny's hotel room at Circus Circus. Photo courtesy of Zosia Zgolak
	This rather unique convenience store/gas station is located near the turnoff to Death Valley from Highway 95. Apparently, there is a brothel at the back, and the diner at the rear of the store doubles as a topless bar at night! Photo courtesy of Zosia Zgolak
	Sonny finishes eating an apple at Zabriskie Point. Photo courtesy of Zosia Zgolak
	This is the spring-fed pool at Badwater Basin. There is less water here than when Sonny last visited in 2011.
	Zosia walks along the salt flats of Badwater Basin. The Sea Level sign is indicated.

What I said in 2011 still holds true: It's like God threw up here!

Artists Palette is still as colourful as ever.

	Zosia has such low blood pressure that she still feels cold at 34°C.
	At a picnic table beside the gas station in Stovepipe Wells, Zosia cuts a watermelon with her Swiss army knife.
	Zosia checks out one of the Wildrose Charcoal Kilns on the way to Thorndike campground.
	Zosia's tent is set up at Thorndike campground. Photo courtesy of Zosia Zgolak
	Sonny hits the sack early. Photo courtesy of Zosia Zgolak

On the morning of 19 October 2016, Zosia and I got up before dawn to eat breakfast and pack up camp. Prior to coming here, there was some uncertainty as to whether or not we could drive all the way up to Mahogany Flat campground and the trailhead for Telescope Peak, but the road turned out to be in better shape than expected. A well-graded trail runs all the way up to the summit of Telescope Peak, but a couple of named peaks along the way can also be tagged with minimal extra effort. After hiking for about half an hour, we left the trail shortly after sunrise to ascend the east ridge of Rogers Peak. We encountered no technical difficulties, but with telecommunications equipment cluttering the summit, we saw no reason to linger there. We promptly descended the south slopes and briefly regained the trail to Telescope Peak before leaving it again to ascend the north slopes of Bennett Peak. This ascent was also straightforward, but we stopped a bit longer at the top to enjoy the surrounding views and to sign the summit register. When we resumed hiking, we dropped down the south side of Bennett Peak to again pick up the trail to Telescope Peak. The switchbacks going up the north ridge of Telescope Peak seemed a bit long-winded, but again, there were no technical difficulties as we climbed up to the highest point of Death Valley National Park. After an extended stay at the top, we returned to the trailhead via the same trail, bypassing Bennett Peak and Rogers Peak on the way back.

Good morning, Death Valley!!!

The sun rises over Badwater Basin (left).

	Mist fills the valleys to the southeast.
	Zosia approaches the summit of Rogers Peak.
	Sonny and Zosia stand near the summit of Rogers Peak (3039 metres).

And I don't know why the saddle even bears a name...

Zosia walks toward Telescope Peak (left) and Bennett Peak (right). The broad saddle in front of her is known as Arcane Meadows.

	Rogers Peak can be seen at distant left as Zosia approaches the top of Bennett Peak.
	Sonny and Zosia sit on the summit of Bennett Peak (3041 metres).
	Badwater Basin gleams in the morning sunshine.
	Telescope Peak looms to the south.
	Zosia begins to climb up the north ridge of Telescope Peak.
	Zosia gains elevation slowly on the numerous switchbacks running up the north ridge.
	The summit is finally in sight.
	Sonny takes the last few steps before the summit. Photo courtesy of Zosia Zgolak
	Telescope Peak's summit register is also a geocache.

Sonny and Zosia stand on the summit of Telescope Peak (3365 metres), the highest point in Death Valley National Park.

	Zosia pokes her head above the wind-break with the southern portion of the Panamint Range behind her.
	The flat expanse to the west is known as Wildrose Wash.
	Among the white peaks on the right horizon about 117 kilometres away to the northwest is Mount Whitney, the highest peak in the contiguous United States ("Lower 48").
	Here is a last look at Badwater Basin, the lowest point in North America.
	On the way back, Zosia hikes through Arcane Meadows below the top of Rogers Peak.
	Total Distance: 20.3 kilometres Round-Trip Time: 8 hours 16 minutes Net Elevation Gain: 886 metres GPX Data

When Zosia and I returned to the trailhead, we took another extended break at Mahogany Flat campground before heading back through Stovepipe Wells to visit Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes. Along the way, we stopped briefly at Emigrant campground where we were planning to spend the night. Although the free campground was mostly deserted when we arrived in the late afternoon, Zosia suggested pitching her tent in order to save a camping spot. We then drove to Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes where we hiked to the highest dune as the sun disappeared over the western horizon. Hiking back to the parking lot in the dark was a little tricky as we tried to minimize the number of ups and downs over the intervening sand dunes. Upon returning to Emigrant campground, I was a bit astonished to see that it was nearly full, and I was thankful that Zosia had the foresight to save us a spot. While she turned in early, I stayed up a little longer to make myself something to eat and to gaze at the stars in the sky. It was a satisfying way to wrap up our whirlwind visit to Death Valley National Park.

	Sonny grabs some water from the back on his car at Emigrant campground. Photo courtesy of Zosia Zgolak
	Zosia has her sights set on the highest dune of Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes.
	Zosia heads toward the highest sand dune (right).
	Standing on the highest dune, Zosia watches as the light fades over Death Valley National Park.