BOU AVENUE
Kettle Valley Railway
Zosia Zgolak and I cycled parts of the famed
Kettle Valley Railway (KVR) while staying in Penticton, British Columbia
over an extended long weekend. On the morning of 11 June 2017, we
started cycling right from our hotel on Main Street and headed for Skaha
Beach at the south end of the city. At the west end of the beach,
we muddled our way through a private campground before finding a good
trail running along the west shore of Skaha Lake. I had previously
ridden this trail from
Penticton to
Okanagan Falls, and just as before, the ride was both easy and very
scenic. My recollections of the route were a bit hazy as we
navigated through the private residences near Okanagan Falls, but good
signage throughout prevented us from getting lost. After stopping
for a break at Lions Gardens, we made our way to the east side of Skaha
Lake and headed back to Penticton along Lakeside Road. This road
was fairly busy on this day especially with a lot of motorcycles mostly
going the other way, but all the motorists were courteous enough to give
Zosia and me enough space to cycle safely. Back in Penticton, we
cycled north on Main Street through downtown and stopped for lunch on the
south shore of Okanagan Lake.
Although it was tempting to just lounge by the lake for the rest of the
day, we eventually got moving again and cycled north on the KVR through
the vineyards northeast of Penticton. The trail climbs steadily
from the city, but the grade is so gentle as to be almost imperceptible.
The constant peddling to maintain momentum did wear on us though, and we
considered turning around at Arawana Station near Naramata.
Fortunately, we found a second wind after a short break and pushed on
further to the feature known as Little Tunnel before calling it a day.
The downhill ride back to Penticton was very enjoyable. Although
Zosia claimed that she still had to peddle in a few places, I was able to
just let my bicycle roll on its own to pick up speed, and yet, I never
went fast enough to warrant applying my brakes except at the occasional
road crossing. We made a lengthy stop at Hillside Winery and Bistro
where Zosia generously treated me to a fine dinner, and when we resumed
riding, we avoided downtown Penticton by following the KVR all the way to
where it crosses Main Street just north of Nelson Avenue. Back on
Main Street, we made one more detour to the grocery store at Cherry Lane
Shopping Centre before returning to our hotel to end our ride for the
day.
Vineyards and orchards dominate the landscape near
Naramata. At right across Okanagan Lake is
Mount Nkwala, and
Skaha Lake is visible at distant left.
|
Zosia rides into the Little Tunnel (681 metres). |
Sonny and Zosia make the Little Tunnel their turnaround
point for the day.
Myra Canyon, just southeast of Kelowna, British
Columbia, is the high point, both literally and figuratively, of the KVR.
The canyon is famous for its 18 trestle bridges which are popular with
hikers and cyclists. Zosia and I had intended to cycle through Myra
Canyon on 12 June 2017, but I felt that starting from Ruth Station or
Myra Station, the trailheads at opposite ends of this section of the KVR,
would make for too short of an outing (about 11 kilometres and 50 minutes
to cycle one-way according to Google Maps). Instead, we started
cycling from Chute Lake Resort which is about 26 kilometres west of Ruth Station
(about a 1.5-hour ride one-way). Furthermore, the KVR is almost
flat for this entire stretch, and despite the added length, Zosia and I
both anticipated a fairly easy ride. The drive from Penticton to
Chute Lake Resort takes about 50 minutes, and although I could have
driven further along the KVR, I decided to park at the resort ($5.25 fee
including tax) for the added security and also for the privilege to use
their bathroom.When Zosia and I
finally left the resort and started cycling along the KVR, we were
dismayed to find the gravel surface to be sandier in comparison to what
we had experienced the day before riding near Naramata. It often
felt like we were riding through molasses, and although
the grade was utterly flat, we found it difficult to maintain our forward
momentum. Our easy ride soon turned into a long, slow grind, and
the only things that kept us motivated were the occasional far-reaching
views of Okanagan Lake and the promise of much more enjoyable riding in
Myra Canyon. The long trestle bridge at Bellevue Creek provided a
nice preview of what was to follow in Myra Canyon, but there would be
another long uninspiring stretch before we reached Ruth Station.
Just before reaching the parking lot for Ruth Station, I witnessed a
fairly big black bear run across the KVR. It disappeared into the
forest before I had a chance to take a photograph, but this was a good
reminder for us to remain vigilant while cycling the KVR.
The ride from Chute Lake Resort had
taken us a whopping three hours, and we were already quite weary by the
time we stopped for a much-needed lunch break at trestle bridge #1.
Myra Canyon was truly the highlight of the day, and much of our fatigue
was forgotten once we started riding across the numerous trestle
bridges. Upon arriving at Myra Station, we were disappointed that
there was no ice cream stand and promptly turned around to begin our
long ride back to Chute Lake Resort. Numbingly monotonous would
be an apt description of our return journey once we exited Myra Canyon,
and because we had underestimated how long this trip would take, we
also began to run low on water and food. Fortunately, we seemed
to make better progress on our way back perhaps because we were getting
more adept at riding on the rough surface of the KVR. We
eventually rolled into Chute Lake Resort late in the day, and the elder
lady who sold us our parking permit came out to express her relief
since she was getting a bit worried about us. We subsequently
loaded our bicycles into my car and then drove back to our hotel in
Penticton where we enjoyed a hot shower before devouring a delicious
dinner prepared by Zosia.
Four trestle bridges can be seen in this view across
Myra Canyon.
Zosia crosses trestle bridge #15.