Iceberg Peak

BOU AVENUE
Iceberg Peak

On 28 September 2024, Zosia Zgolak and I scrambled up Iceberg Peak in Montana's Glacier National Park. This attractive mountain has been on my radar for many years, but I was always put off by the standard approach via the daunting Iceberg Notch as described in A Climber's Guide to Glacier National Park by J. Gordon Edwards. Not that I am shy about difficult scrambling, but this route demands dry conditions, favourable weather, good planning, and maybe even a little luck. Recently though, I discovered that the longer but less technical approach from Going-to-the-Sun Road via Granite Park has seemingly become more popular as evidenced by the entries in Peakbagger.com. Rafal Kazmierczak and Andrew Nugara climbed Iceberg Peak by this same route just last year which prompted me to finally give it a try. This route starts from the Loop Trailhead (48.75495, -113.80045; vault toilets available).

Anticipating a very long day, Zosia and I got off to a pre-dawn start from the Loop Trailhead and had no issues hiking the signed and well-maintained Granite Park Trail which climbs more than 650 metres over the first six kilometres. Instead of going by Granite Park Chalet, we took a short cut trail which passes a backcountry campground (outhouse available) before connecting with Highline Trail which also happens to be part of the Continental Divide Trail (CDT) at this point. For the next few kilometres, we enjoyed a relatively flat and easy walk northward along the CDT with far-reaching views across the valley to the west.

At one point, I waited while Zosia stopped to pick and eat ripe huckleberries from some bushes beside the trail. When we resumed hiking, we were suddenly surprised to see a large grizzly bear walking slowly toward us on the very same trail. We started shouting and waving our hiking poles, but this bear, though it was not aggressive, showed absolutely no fear of us and kept heading in our direction. We retreated a short distance before moving down-slope off the trail to get out of its way. The bear stayed on the trail but paused briefly to look at us as it passed by. Fortunately, the bear showed little interest in chasing us and continued to amble along the trail until it finally stopped to forage in the very same huckleberry patch that Zosia was eating from only minutes earlier. Returning to the trail, we observed the bear from a distance for a few minutes before resuming our hike northward. In retrospect, it was perhaps fortuitous that I had refrained from eating any huckleberries at all and that Zosia had not completely picked the bushes clean!

Roughly four kilometres north of the junction where we first gained the CDT, Zosia and I turned a corner and got our first clear view of Iceberg Peak's west face which looked a bit daunting from afar. The trail descends under north-facing cliffs here to circle around a basin, and just as Nugara reported the previous year, the so-called "Ahern Drift"--a steep snow/ice slope that sometimes blocks passage along the CDT--was non-existent and did not hinder our approach. After rounding the basin, we abandoned the CDT and began hiking off-trail up the west face. We easily found a way through an initial short cliff band before grinding up a long but simple rubble slope. A second cliff band guarding the upper mountain is bigger and more complex requiring a lot of route-finding and scrambling. I had some GPS tracks from Peakbagger.com to help guide us, but there are multiple ways of surmounting the second cliff band. In the end, we mainly followed our own noses seeking out the easiest lines, sometimes through trial and error. Above the second cliff band, the terrain is simpler, and we had fewer problems reaching and ascending the final summit block. The views from the summit of Iceberg Peak are among the very best in Glacier National Park, and we took a well-deserved break here to re-charge for the long return trip.

For our descent, Zosia and I more or less retraced our steps down the mountain. Not surprisingly, descending the upper cliff band presented the most challenges for us, but with careful route-finding, we methodically made our way down safely to easier terrain. Upon regaining the CDT, we settled into a long but straightforward plod back to Granite Park and ultimately to the trailhead. The grizzly bear was nowhere to be found during our uneventful return journey.

Cool-looking moon! Dawn breaks as Zosia hikes up Granite Park Trail.

Another peak that I'll ruminate for a long time... Sunlight hits the top of Heavens Peak.

Looks like they're fattening for winter! A couple of grouse try to remain inconspicuous on the side of the trail.
Photo courtesy of Zosia Zgolak

Last available toilet (outhouse) here!
Zosia passes Granite Park backcountry campground along a short cut to Highline Trail.

Superb hiking here! Zosia hikes along Highline Trail with Swiftcurrent Mountain towering above her. This section of Highline Trail is also part of the Continental Divide Trail.

It's crazy how close this one approached us! A mule deer slowly detours around Zosia.

Apparently bears like this trail too! Far-reaching views abound along Highline Trail.

This bear was not scared of us! A large grizzly bear ambles along Highline Trail.

It's a good thing she left a few berries for the bear! The grizzly bear stops to feed on the same huckleberry patch that Zosia was just eating from a few minutes earlier.

We met "Boo Boo" earlier this year, so I guess we'll call this one "Yogi"!
Here is a last look at the grizzly bear in the huckleberry patch.
Photo courtesy of Zosia Zgolak

Apparently an easy ascent, but it's a long way from the nearest trailhead! Ahern Peak dominates the view as Zosia turns a corner along Highline Trail.

Yeesh...doesn't look easy! Zosia gets her first clear look at Iceberg Peak from Highline Trail.

Thankfully, it's not an issue on this day! Early in the summer, the trail here is often still covered with snow--the Ahern Drift--which may be difficult if not impossible to bypass safely.

Which is also why autumn is a great time to hike here!
This part of Highline Trail is almost perpetually in shadow which explains why snow usually lingers here well into summer.

The scramble route looks a bit daunting! This is probably the best spot to abandon Highline Trail and begin scrambling up Iceberg Peak. The ascent route pretty much goes straight up the slope at centre and through the cliff bands directly below the visible summit block.

Might also be possible to swing all the way to far left and maybe circumvent the cliff band. Zosia puts on her helmet in preparation for scrambling up the weakness (right of centre) in the upper cliff band.

Putting our noses to the grindstone! Getting through the upper cliff band entails a lot of route-finding and scrambling.

Steeper and more challenging than it looks! Zosia tries to figure out where to go next.

Yes, I forgot to bring my helmet! Sonny awkwardly climbs through a tight gap in the rocks.
Photo courtesy of Zosia Zgolak

Fairly easy from here to the top.
Zosia approaches the summit block of Iceberg Peak.

Wonderful! Helen Lake (bottom) and Elizabeth Lake (far right) steal the show in this view to the north from the summit of Iceberg Peak.

It's always a treat to see Chief Mountain!

This is looking east from the summit.

	Sonny and Zosia stand on the summit of Iceberg Peak (2809 metres).
	The best view of the day is that of Iceberg Lake and Mount Wilbur.
	Numerous spectacular mountains stretch far away to the south.
	Zosia carefully down-climbs some complex terrain on descent.
	Here is a last look at the west face of Iceberg Peak.
	Zosia hikes back the same way she came along Highline Trail.
	Zosia stops to admire the views across Granite Park late in the day.
	Total Distance: 26.8 kilometres Round-Trip Time: 14 hours 57 minutes Cumulative Elevation Gain: 1736 metres GPX Data

	Dawn breaks as Zosia hikes up Granite Park Trail.
	Sunlight hits the top of Heavens Peak.
	A couple of grouse try to remain inconspicuous on the side of the trail. Photo courtesy of Zosia Zgolak
	Zosia passes Granite Park backcountry campground along a short cut to Highline Trail.
	Zosia hikes along Highline Trail with Swiftcurrent Mountain towering above her. This section of Highline Trail is also part of the Continental Divide Trail.
	A mule deer slowly detours around Zosia.
	Far-reaching views abound along Highline Trail.
	A large grizzly bear ambles along Highline Trail.
	The grizzly bear stops to feed on the same huckleberry patch that Zosia was just eating from a few minutes earlier.
	Here is a last look at the grizzly bear in the huckleberry patch. Photo courtesy of Zosia Zgolak
	Ahern Peak dominates the view as Zosia turns a corner along Highline Trail.
	Zosia gets her first clear look at Iceberg Peak from Highline Trail.
	Early in the summer, the trail here is often still covered with snow--the Ahern Drift--which may be difficult if not impossible to bypass safely.
	This part of Highline Trail is almost perpetually in shadow which explains why snow usually lingers here well into summer.
	This is probably the best spot to abandon Highline Trail and begin scrambling up Iceberg Peak. The ascent route pretty much goes straight up the slope at centre and through the cliff bands directly below the visible summit block.
	Zosia puts on her helmet in preparation for scrambling up the weakness (right of centre) in the upper cliff band.
	Getting through the upper cliff band entails a lot of route-finding and scrambling.
	Zosia tries to figure out where to go next.
	Sonny awkwardly climbs through a tight gap in the rocks. Photo courtesy of Zosia Zgolak
	Zosia approaches the summit block of Iceberg Peak.
	Helen Lake (bottom) and Elizabeth Lake (far right) steal the show in this view to the north from the summit of Iceberg Peak.