From Highway 93/95, turn east onto Whiteswan Lake Forest Service Road (FSR) 5.1 kilometres south of Canal Flats or 23 kilometres north of Skookumchuk. Drive 21 kilometres and turn right onto Lussier River FSR. Ignore all side roads and drive 31 kilometres to the signed trailhead parking lot with outhouse. Lussier River FSR is generally passable for 2WD vehicles, but there are enough potholes to warrant having high-clearance.
Leaving Calgary after work on 4 September
2020, Shaun Luong, Zosia Zgolak and I made the long drive to the park's
trailhead and backpacked to the campground at Fish Lake in the dark.
The trail is signed and well-maintained (about 6.7 kilometres with 212
metres elevation gain), and it took us about 90 minutes to reach the
campground (tent pads, picnic tables, food lockers, outhouses, and
firewood provided) where we set up our tents and paid our fees ($5.00 per
person per night) before turning in for the night.
Shaun, Zosia and I got up before dawn on the morning of 5 September 2020,
and after eating breakfast, we began hiking the signed trail to the
Alpine Viewpoint. Just as I remembered from my first trip, this is
a grueling ascent which gains 600 metres in a little more than three
kilometres. The trail starts from a signed junction just north of
Fish Lake and climbs moderately through forest to an avalanche slope
which is readily visible from the campground. The trail eventually
passes another signed junction (trail to Summer Pass) and climbs up a
huge scree-filled basin. The trail downgrades to an unmaintained
route at this point, but a good beaten path continues up the basin.
The beaten path deteriorates amidst a steep slope of treadmill rubble
just below the cliffs guarding the top of the basin, and groveling up
this section was a bit unpleasant. At the base of the cliffs, the
beaten path becomes more defined again as it rises up a hidden ramp to a
weakness that allows easy access to the Alpine Viewpoint. Because
of the looseness of the terrain, some care is required in climbing the
ramp as a slip here could potentially be fatal.
Reaching the Alpine Viewpoint, Shaun, Zosia and I got our first glimpse
of Mount Morro to the east, and we took a short break here to study the
remainder of the approach. The mountain looked dishearteningly far
away, and traversing the intervening height of land would entail a
significant loss of elevation. While my suggested approach via the
southern aspect looked sound, we were still uncertain about what lay in
store for us on the upper mountain. The only way to find out was to
go see for ourselves. Leaving the Alpine Viewpoint behind us, we
initially headed southeast and tried our best to avoid unnecessary ups
and downs, but ultimately, we had to lose elevation as we turned more
eastwardly toward our objective. Thankfully, the larch-filled
terrain is open enough to allow fairly easy off-trail travel with minimal
bushwhacking, and we made good progress across the height of land via a
series of grassy meadows.
Standing on the dock at Fish Lake,
Shaun and Zosia prepare to embark on a strenuous ascent to the Alpine
Viewpoint which is located at the gap just left of the unnamed peak
at upper right.
A good trail leads to the basin below the Alpine Viewpoint.
The trail peters out in the upper basin, but signs of passage lead to a
hidden ramp which starts a little left of centre in the photograph.
Shaun and Zosia climb up the hidden ramp on a beaten path. Caution
is required here as the terrain is very loose.
Temperatures were warm on this day, and as we
stopped for another short break near the last trees below Mount Morro, I
noticed that my supply of water and liquid refreshments was running
alarmingly low. Unfortunately, the route was completely bone-dry up
to this point, and from what I could see of the upper mountain, it was
unlikely that I would be able to replenish my water bottles anytime soon.
As such, I began rationing my water supply and taking only infrequent
small sips. One saving grace for me was a westerly breeze that
kicked up once we climbed higher up the mountain. The breeze kept
the temperatures tolerable, and consequently, I did not feel the need to
drink as much.
Photo courtesy of Zosia Zgolak
Upon reaching the Alpine Viewpoint, Shaun and Zosia take a well-deserved
break.
Resuming his approach to Mount Morro, Sonny leaves the Alpine Viewpoint
behind him.
Mount Morro (left of centre) seems hopelessly far away as Shaun and Zosia
make their way through the lightly forested terrain.
Shaun and Zosia find a grassy corridor of sorts heading in the direction of Mount Morro.
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Sonny and Shaun agree that the right-hand skyline is probably the most
feasible route to the top of Mount Morro. Photo courtesy of Zosia Zgolak |
Standing atop Mount Morro fulfilled a 19-year old dream of mine, and I was ecstatic that we were able to find a way up on our own. Having said that, the summit register surprisingly showed that there is a lot more regular traffic on this mountain than I would have expected given its remote location. Many of the register entries are by resident park rangers for which the climb of Mount Morro is probably a rite of passage.
To the southwest, Empire State Peak (left) and Chrysler Peak (right) stand amidst a number of striking pinnacles. Mount Fisher is also visible on the right horizon.
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This is looking west toward the Alpine Viewpoint (centre) and the intervening grassy corridor (lower left). The pointy peak on the horizon at centre is Teepee Mountain. |
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Several tarns can be seen down the north side of Mount Morro. |
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Mount Washburn (right) sticks up like a sore thumb on the eastern horizon. |
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Other unnamed peaks of the Van Nostrand Range stretch away to the south. In the hazy distance at left is Mount Bisaro. |
Of course, the return hike was still an epic slog as we worked our way back across the height of land and up to the Alpine Viewpoint (with at least an additional 160 metres of elevation gain). Just like the summit block, descending the hidden ramp into the scree-filled basin demands some focus and attention due to the slippery footing there. By this point, smoke from wildfires to the west had settled over the area, but this had the benefit of attenuating the heat from the late-day sun. Consequently, we were spared from getting baked while making the knee-jarring descent down the basin. Once we reached the Summer Pass trail junction, we could relax a bit as we settled into an easy hike back to the campground at Fish Lake. A hearty dinner with refreshments in camp capped off a very strenuous but rewarding day.
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Shaun and Zosia carefully descend from the summit. Note the immense drop to the tarns below. |
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Sonny refills his water bottle from a spring that Zosia discovered
seeping out of the ground. Other than Fish Lake at the very start,
this would be the only place to replenish water bottles on the whole
trip. Photo courtesy of Zosia Zgolak |
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At the foot of Mount Morro, Shaun and Zosia begin the long walk back to the Alpine Viewpoint (distant right). |
Here is a last look back at Mount Morro in the hot afternoon sun.
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Shaun and Zosia carefully descend the ramp below the Alpine Viewpoint. The strange lighting is due to wildfire smoke. |
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Sonny surfs down the loosest and steepest part of the upper basin. Photo courtesy of Zosia Zgolak |
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Shaun and Zosia continue their steep descent with Fish Lake and Mount Doolan (centre) visible through the smoky haze. |
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Total
Distance: 20.2 kilometres Round-Trip Time: 11 hours 55 minutes Cumulative Elevation Gain: 1573 metres |