BOU AVENUE
Mount Bishop
On 26 August 2017, I accompanied Marta
Wojnarowska and Zosia Zgolak for an attempt at scrambling up Mount Bishop
on the Continental Divide between British Columbia and Alberta.
Elisabeth Dupuis and Alan Hardy were also interested in climbing Mount
Bishop on the same day, but due to difficulties in coordinating our
schedules, we agreed to climb separately with hopes of maybe running into
each other somewhere on the mountain. As per the route description in
Andrew Nugara's More Scrambles in the Canadian Rockies, we would approach
the mountain from the east via trails along Loomis Creek and Bishop
Creek. Marta, Zosia and I would also use mountain bikes for part of the
approach.
Starting from a gate on the west side of Highway 40 near the Lineham Creek day use area of
Alberta's Kananaskis Country, we biked down a logging
road which quickly leads to an unbridged crossing of the knee-deep
Highwood River. On the other side, we continued to enjoy easy riding all
the way to the first crossing of Loomis Creek. A convenient plank of wood
made this crossing very easy, but beyond this point, the road downgrades
to a rough single track. In retrospect, we probably should have left our
bikes here as the subsequent creek crossings and numerous mud holes made
the trail increasingly difficult to ride.
|
Zosia and Marta start the trip at the
unsigned trailhead. |
|
Marta fords Highwood River. |
|
Zosia and Marta cruise along the wide
trail. |
|
Bicycles make fording Loomis Creek
a bit awkward. |
Shortly after the third
crossing of Loomis Creek, we finally abandoned our mountain bikes and
proceeded the rest of the way on foot. The junction for the trail up
Bishop Creek is at a fairly obvious open meadow with distant views of
Mount Bishop. Travel was initially easy along this trail, but the further
we progressed up Bishop Creek, the more overgrown the trail became. Because deadfall was minimal, we could generally still follow the trail,
but we had to plow through several long stretches of thick bush. Mercifully, the vegetation began to thin out as we approached the basin
below Mount Bishop's east face.Crossing the basin, we climbed onto the
crest of the east ridge and took a short break in the shade of some
trees. Someone had left some gear here including a small machete, and we
guessed that it belonged to Alan and Elisabeth whom we now suspected were
somewhere ahead of us on the upper mountain. Sure enough, when we resumed
climbing, we heard voices high above us, and we eventually spotted Alan
and Elisabeth muddling about in what appeared to be very challenging terrain. Following Nugara's advice to avoid climbing straight up the east ridge,
Marta, Zosia and I veered to climber's left as we ascended which led us
out onto the southeast face. We soon ran into Alan and Elisabeth who were
on their way down after being stymied trying to go directly up the east
ridge. Due to personal commitments, they were unable to come with us for
another stab at the summit, and after a brief chat, we parted ways.Subsequently, Marta, Zosia and I ran into some route-finding issues of
our own as we tried to reconcile what we could see with Nugara's route description.
The terrain is complex here, and the foreshortened view makes
route-finding a bit tricky. Following an aborted attempt to
surmount the first significant cliff band we encountered, Zosia felt
uncomfortable about continuing and decided to sit tight while Marta and I
tried to find another way up. This first cliff band (probably Class
4) is the crux of the
route, and it is definitely harder than Nugara's
moderate rating would suggest.
With some effort, Marta and I managed to surmount the difficult cliff
band, but just as Nugara promises, the
route-finding became much easier afterward. We continued up a mix of
loose scree, steep gullies and easy rock bands en route to a surprisingly
large plateau just before the summit. We finished the long ascent
with an easy plod across the plateau. Unfortunately, wildfire smoke
obscured most of our views at the top, and Marta and I were resigned to
content ourselves with reading the Who's Who of names in the summit
register.On descent, we retraced our steps back down the southeast face
following flagging tape that Marta had the foresight to place during our
ascent (we cleaned up all the flagging tape on our way down).
Descending the crux cliff band was not easy as expected, but we both
managed to get down unscathed. Reunited with Zosia, we continued
descending the southeast face while veering back towards the east ridge. Although the terrain is not as complex here as on the upper mountain,
some vigilance is still
required as both Zosia and I nearly slipped on ball-bearing pebbles
overlying smooth slabs. We were able to relax a bit once we returned to
the basin, and from there, we steeled ourselves for another round of
thrashing along the overgrown Bishop Creek trail.
|
Marta carefully descends steep and
loose terrain on the upper mountain. |
|
Some of the rock bands are a bit
awkward to get down. |
Zosia waits patiently on a sunny ridge with
Hill Of The
Flowers in the background.
|
Marta down-climbs the crux cliff band. |
|
Zosia and Marta descend a small rock
step prior to bashing down a big rubble slope. |
|
The late day sun illuminates the top
of Hill Of The Flowers as Zosia hikes back along the Bishop Creek
exploration road. |
We felt some relief
once we cleared the bushes and regained the Loomis Creek trail, but
nightfall was upon us by the time we reached our mountain bikes. The ride
out in the dark was a bit of a surreal experience as we muddled through
the aforementioned mud holes and creek crossings while miraculously
avoiding any serious wipeouts on some of the screaming downhill sections. Ultimately, we all made it back to the trailhead in one piece albeit a
little frazzled, hungry and tired.While Marta drove herself home that
same night, Zosia and I found a quiet camping spot nearby and promptly
went straight to bed without dinner. Good night!