BOU AVENUE
Wilcox Lake And Wilcox Ridge
While I dozed in the passenger seat of my
car in the wee hours of the morning on 15 October 2022, Zosia Zgolak
turned off the Trans-Canada Highway onto Yoho Valley Road and was
dismayed to find a locked gate only a short distance in. Zosia muttered
an expletive as she immediately pulled up the map application in my cell
phone to start searching for a Plan B. Given an unusually nice weather
forecast for the weekend, we had planned on hiking in Little Yoho
Valley that day, and prior to leaving home, Zosia had checked Parks
Canada's website looking for road closure notifications. None were found,
and we assumed that Yoho Valley Road would be open. In spite of
exceptionally warm and dry conditions in the mountains, Parks Canada shut
down all seasonal accesses and amenities--including apparently their
website administrators--right after the Thanksgiving long weekend. While
we ruminated on where we should go, Zosia drove out to the Trans-Canada
Highway and backtracked a bit before turning up the Icefields Parkway. The decision process was a bit chaotic and too long-winded to detail
here, but we ultimately went all the way to the Columbia Icefields in
Jasper National Park to hike up Wilcox Pass. Both of us had already
been there before but not for many years (I was last there in 2007). I also vaguely recalled that there is a hidden lake--Wilcox
Lake--in the
vicinity, and that provided some extra incentive for us to revisit the
pass.Starting from the signed
trailhead (north side of Highway 93, 105.0 kilometres southeast of
junction with Highway 16 or 47.0 kilometres northwest of junction with
Highway 11), Zosia and I followed the official trail which climbs
gradually but steadily for about 3.5 kilometres to Wilcox Pass. In dry
conditions, this trail is very straightforward to hike. Something new at
the pass that neither Zosia nor I had seen before is a signed side trail
that climbs southwesterly up to a viewpoint overlooking the Icefields Centre. The sign refers to the destination as Wilcox Ridge, and virtually
everyone we encountered at the pass were heading that way. We instead
turned north and went off-trail aiming for the lower and less
technical part of a long ridge flanking the east side of Wilcox Pass. Some marshy ponds just north of the pass necessitate a bit of
route-finding or rock-hopping, but we managed to get past them without
getting our feet wet. As we ascended the slope beyond the ponds, we
stumbled onto a convenient trail which led us to the crest of the ridge. Rounding the corner on the ridge, we were surprised that Wilcox Lake was
nowhere in sight. Not to be denied, we dropped down into the valley on
the far side of the ridge, and after crossing some easy but undulating
terrain, we finally found the elusive lake. Zosia also spotted a couple of
bighorn sheep lounging on a rise overlooking the lake, and they hardly
flinched when we plopped down for an extended break a short distance
away.
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A black bear nonchalantly climbs up an embankment on the side of the
Icefields Parkway (Highway 93) near the Big Bend in Banff National Park.
Photo courtesy of Zosia Zgolak |
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Zosia stands in front of the information kiosk at the Wilcox Pass
trailhead. |
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Already there are views to the west of
Athabasca Glacier, Snow Dome and Dome Glacier. |
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The trees begin to thin out as Zosia
continues up the trail. |
Here is a closer look at Snow Dome (right of centre)
flanked by Athabasca Glacier (far left) and Dome Glacier (right).
At bottom centre is Sunwapta Lake.
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The summit of
Nigel Peak is
directly above Zosia. |
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Wilcox Peak
dominates the landscape in the vicinity of its namesake pass. |
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Zosia arrives at Wilcox Pass (2348
metres). |
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Zosia finds an interesting fossil in
some rocks near the pass. |
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Zosia tries to figure out how to get
around this barely frozen pond. Left of centre on the horizon
is Tangle Ridge. |
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The tops of Snow Dome and Mount
Kitchener peek over Wilcox Ridge as Zosia tries to rock-hop across
some wet terrain. |
This perspective of Wilcox Peak gives a better view of
Kane's scramble route along the left skyline.
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This is looking back across Wilcox
Pass at Mount Athabasca and Mount Andromeda. |
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The terrain on the north side of
Wilcox Pass shows the hallmarks of glaciation. |
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Zosia follows a trail across a rubble
slope. |
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After cresting the ridge flanking the
east side of Wilcox Pass, Zosia easily sees Nigel Peak, but Wilcox
Lake is surprisingly not visible. |
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Zosia hikes across undulating terrain
in search of Wilcox Lake. |
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Wilcox Lake finally comes into view. |
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Relaxing on a rise above the lake are
two bighorn sheep--both rams. |
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Here is a close-up of one of the rams. |
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Here is a close-up of the other ram. |
When the two sheep eventually tired of our company and moved
off, Zosia and I dropped down to the lakeshore briefly before
backtracking to the ridge. We picked up the trail there and
followed it down the slope until it petered out near the marshy ponds.
Upon returning to Wilcox Pass, we made a detour to check out Wilcox
Ridge. Other than crossing an annoying dip, the out-and-back trail
is easy to follow and ends at a superlative viewpoint. Once we had
our fill of jaw-dropping scenery, we returned the same way to the pass,
and from there we easily hiked back to the trailhead without trouble.
One of the rams moves leisurely to another location in
the valley.
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Nigel Peak is reflected in Wilcox
Lake. |
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Sonny and Zosia stand on the shore of
Wilcox Lake. |
As Zosia makes her way out of the valley, rugged peaks
such as Mount Alberta, Mount Woolley, Diadem Peak, and Mushroom Peak
(centre) are noticeable on the horizon.
Here is another comprehensive view of Wilcox Pass with
Mount Athabasca and Mount Andromeda in the background. Wilcox Ridge
is also visible across the pass.
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Zosia follows the Wilcox Ridge trail
which drops into a dip ahead. |
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This short but steep section of trail
could be problematic if icy or wet. |
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The viewpoint at trail's end overlooks
the Icefields Centre (bottom). |
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Here is a view of Wilcox Peak's south
ridge from the Wilcox Ridge trail. Also visible on the right
horizon is
Sunwapta Peak. |
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Nigel Peak commands the eastern flank
of Wilcox Pass. |
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Most of Mount Athabasca's north face
is in shadow late in the day. The low brown mound at far left
is Boundary Peak. |
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The Athabasca Glacier is undoubtedly
receding at the moment. For comparison, check out this
photo from 2003
which shows the toe of the glacier still covering the upper lake
which did not exist then. |
Zosia works her way back along the Wilcox Ridge trail
with far-reaching views to the southeast.
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Near the end of their hike, Sonny and
Zosia stop and relax in a couple of red Adirondack chairs placed
strategically by Parks Canada. |
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Total
Distance: 15.3 kilometres
Round-Trip Time: 7 hours 42 minutes
Cumulative
Elevation Gain: 779 metres
GPX Data |