Ptarmigan Tunnel

BOU AVENUE
Ptarmigan Tunnel

Rounding out a long weekend in Montana's Glacier National Park, Zosia Zgolak and I paid a visit to historic Ptarmigan Tunnel on 30 September 2024. Built in 1930 by the Civilian Conservation Corps, the tunnel breaches an impressive rock barrier known as Ptarmigan Wall and connects Belly River valley with the Many Glacier region. Robust doors were added in 1975 by the National Park Service, and the tunnel is only open annually during the summer and early fall. The trail from Many Glacier to Ptarmigan Tunnel is long but well-maintained and exceedingly scenic. It also shares much of the approach with the trail to Iceberg Lake, one of the most popular hiking objectives in the park. Note that, in addition to the regular park pass, motor vehicle access to Many Glacier now requires a reservation during peak times (6 AM to 3 PM; July 1 to September 8).

Because of construction around the Swiftcurrent Motor Inn, the usual trailhead for Ptarmigan Tunnel was inaccessible on this day. Consequently, Zosia and I had to start our hike from Many Glacier Hotel, effectively adding an extra two kilometres of hiking each way. From the hotel parking lot (48.79654, -113.65557), we briefly followed temporary flagging for the Continental Divide Trail before splitting off onto the Iceberg-Ptarmigan Trail and crossing the closed access road for Swiftcurrent Motor Inn. Beyond the cutoff to the normal trailhead, the trail traverses across the lower slopes of Mount Henkel and is generally open granting views of impressive peaks across the valley. This stretch of trail is also notoriously frequented by bears, but on this day, we only saw a lone moose. A little past the halfway mark, we passed a convenient outhouse before reaching Ptarmigan Falls. The falls are impressive enough, but disappointingly, there are no suitable viewpoints to get a clear view of them. Just beyond the falls is a signed junction where the Iceberg Lake trail splits off to the left. Going right, we began a lengthy but straightforward climb to picturesque Ptarmigan Lake, and from there, we followed the trail to the back of the basin and ascended two sweeping switchbacks to reach the southern entrance to Ptarmigan Tunnel.

Passing through the tunnel and emerging from the north entrance, Zosia and I felt like we had walked through a portal to another world as we looked in awe at Elizabeth Lake and the surrounding peaks. We spent about 10 minutes on the shadowy north side of Ptarmigan Wall before retreating through the tunnel to take a break in warm sunshine. When we resumed hiking, we returned the same way we came and had a long but largely uneventful hike back to Many Glacier Hotel.

Baby, it's cold outside!

Visible across Swiftcurrent Lake are Mount Gould (left), Grinnell Point (centre), Swiftcurrent Mountain (right of centre), and Mount Wilbur (right).

	Due to construction in the area, Zosia is forced to walk a few extra kilometres each way since the normal trailhead is inaccessible on this day. In the background, Mount Wilbur is on fire in the morning sun.
	This sign warns that equestrian traffic is prohibited in the vicinity of Ptarmigan Tunnel due to a "severe rockslide". Foot traffic is apparently still okay. Photo courtesy of Zosia Zgolak
	Although Mount Wilbur dominates most of the view along the trail, Zosia also gets a glimpse of Iceberg Peak (in shadow right of centre).
	A moose tries to stay hidden behind some bushes not far off the trail. Photo courtesy of Zosia Zgolak

Only Iceberg Peak is a scramble; the other two are technical climbs.

Here is another panoramic view from the trail of Mount Wilbur (left), Iceberg Peak (centre), and unofficially-named B-7 Pillar (right of centre).

	Ptarmigan Lake sits in a basin below Ptarmigan Wall.
	Zosia continues to hike along the trail which eventually makes a zigzag up Ptarmigan Wall.
	Here is a look back at Ptarmigan Lake with Mount Gould and Mount Grinnell visible on the distant central horizon.
	Zosia ascends the last switchback before the tunnel.
	Zosia arrives at the southern entrance of Ptarmigan Tunnel.
	Sonny and Zosia get to work on clearing the reported rockslide near the tunnel.
	Zosia walks through Ptarmigan Tunnel.

Proves that you don't need a summit for great views!

Elizabeth Lake attracts the most attention in this view from the north entrance of Ptarmigan Tunnel.

	Ptarmigan Trail can be seen continuing down the north side of Ptarmigan Wall.
	The north entrance of the tunnel is guarded by precipitous cliffs.
	Here is another look at Ptarmigan Lake from the southern entrance. The peak at right is unofficially known as Ptarmigan Spire.
	Leaving the tunnel, Zosia begins the long return hike.
	By sheer luck, Zosia finds $6 USD lying on the trail on her return hike.
	Zosia walks back to the parking lot near Many Glacier Hotel.
	Total Distance: 22.3 kilometres Round-Trip Time: 8 hours 35 minutes Cumulative Elevation Gain: 721 metres GPX Data