Turn east onto Highway 520 from Highway 22 26.9 kilometres south of the junction with Highway 533 or 44.4 kilometres north of the junction with Highway 3. Drive 3.3 kilometres to a 4-way intersection (this intersection can also be reached by driving Highway 520 west from Claresholm for 42.9 kilometres). Turn south onto Skyline Road and drive 11.0 kilometres to a junction with Sharples Creek Road coming from the right (this road is an alternate driving approach and can be accessed from further south along Highway 22 near Maycroft). Continue straight for another 500 metres to reach a T-intersection with an information sign board. The northern approach to Porcupine Lookout starts from here. For the southern approach, turn right and drive south along Heath Creek Road for 2.2 kilometres to another junction. Turn left and drive 150 metres to a Y-junction which is a logical place to park and start hiking. The left-hand road continues up to the lookout, and with a 4x4 vehicle, it is possible to drive for another kilometre before reaching a locked gate. A more direct foot trail to the lookout also begins near the Y-junction. With the exception of the road up to the lookout, all other roads described here are suitable for 2WD vehicles under dry conditions.
Due to an abundance of snow still clinging to the north side of Porcupine Lookout, we decided to forego the northern approach as described in Mike Potter's guidebook, Fire Lookout Hikes in the Canadian Rockies, and Dave McMurray's excellent trip report. Instead, we drove to the south side of the lookout and simply walked up the access road. Partway along the road, an Alberta Fish and Wildlife officer drove up behind us in a truck to check if we were poachers hunting illegally in the area. Marta and Zosia responded by doing the Chicken Dance which elicited an amused smile from the officer. He promptly left us alone to carry on with his patrol.
The lookout site appeared deserted on
this day, but respecting a "no trespassing" sign there, we decided to
circumnavigate around the perimeter (I did sneak inside the perimeter
briefly to grab a GPS waypoint). We eventually
stopped for a break on a rocky bluff just west of the helipad to the
south of the lookout site. Coincidentally, a helicopter came and
landed while we were relaxing on the bluff. Not wanting to disturb
the people unloading the helicopter, we decided to descend the ridge
below the bluff. We soon picked up a good trail which led us
without fuss back to the Y-junction where we parked.
Photo courtesy of Zosia Zgolak
Photo courtesy of Zosia Zgolak
Photo courtesy of Zosia Zgolak
Shaun, Zosia, Sonny and Marta dance atop a bluff near
the high point (1794 metres) of Porcupine Hills North.
After returning from Porcupine Lookout, we still had a lot of
daylight and energy left and decided to go for a second hike to another
high point further to the north which I dub, "Porcupine Hills North".
While it is possible to climb up Porcupine Hills North directly from
Highway 22 (starting from a pullout 6.0 kilometres north of the junction
with Highway 520 or 20.9 kilometres south of the junction with Highway
533), we opted to make it a longer and more interesting walk by utilizing
the popular
Porcupine Hills Ridge Trail. The Rocky Mountain Ramblers also
hiked to this same high point in
2015 and
2017, but they used a slightly different approach via Adair Creek.
Zosia and Marta dance their way up the
road to Porcupine Lookout.
The group passes a locked gate near the lookout site.
Porcupine Lookout appears deserted on this day.
Sonny, Zosia, Marta and Shaun pose on a hoodoo not far from the high
point (1818 metres) of Porcupine Lookout which also happens to be the
highest point in all of Porcupine Hills.
Caudron Peak (centre) and Centre Peak (right of centre) are visible
through a break in the trees to the southwest.
The group takes a break on a rocky bluff a little bit to the
south of the lookout site.
The group descends Porcupine Lookout via a footpath.
Total
Distance: 3.1 kilometres
Round-Trip Time: 1 hour 55 minutes
Net Elevation Gain: 137 metres
From the aforementioned 4-way intersection (junction of Highway 520
and Skyline Road), drive north for 3.5 kilometres to a large scenic
pullout on the left side of the road. The hiking route begins on an
obvious 4x4 track climbing up the hill to the north.
From the pullout, we followed the 4x4 track and passed through a barbed
wire gate near the top of the first hill. We then followed the
scenic Porcupine Hills Ridge Trail until it began to turn west and
descend into the valley roughly about two kilometres from the start.
We left the trail here and hopped a barbed wire fence in order to
continue north along the ridge. We soon picked up a fainter trail
which runs parallel to another barbed wire fence. This trail
follows the many undulations of the ridge and is mostly in forest until
the final rise to the top of Porcupine Hills North. Upon reaching
the very scenic high point, we took a short break before retracing our
steps all the way back along the ridge. Although this trip felt
long at times with its many ups and downs, we had very few issues
throughout, and the company of good friends made the hike that much more
pleasant.
The Porcupine Hills encompass a vast area, and while Zosia and I have now
visited several locations including
Sand Bluff and
Trout Creek
Ridge, there is still much for us to explore here. With a deep
snow pack persisting in the main ranges of the Canadian Rockies this
year, we may be back sooner than later.
The group climbs up a 4x4 track at the start of the hike.
Porcupine Hills Ridge Trail is well-maintained and very scenic.
Zosia, Shaun and Marta hike the faint trail which follows the crest of
the ridge.
The group passes through a stand of aspen trees on the ridge.
The forest gives way to rocky bluffs near the top of Porcupine Hills
North.
Sonny climbs onto a hoodoo amongst the rocky bluffs.
Familiar mountains to the northwest include
Coffin
Mountain (left),
Mount Livingstone
(right of centre) and
Saddle Mountain
(far right).
Chain Lakes Reservoir is visible to
the north.
The ridge continues north and connects
with Trout Creek Ridge at distant right.
Marta and Zosia start the long walk
back to the trailhead. Porcupine Lookout is visible on the left
horizon.
Total
Distance: 9.9 kilometres
Round-Trip Time: 3 hours 50 minutes
Total Elevation Gain: ~400 metres